LETTERS FROM ENGLAND(从英特兰来的信)

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LETTERS FROM ENGLAND

LETTERS FROM

ENGLAND

1846-1849

By Elizabeth Davis Bancroft

LETTERS FROM ENGLAND

LETTER: TO W.D.B. AND A.B.

LIVERPOOL, October 26, 1846

My dear sons: Thank God with me that we are once more on

TERRA FIRMA. We arrived yesterday morning at ten o'clock, after a

very rough voyage and after riding all night in the Channel in a

tremendous gale, so bad that no pilot could reach us to bring us in on

Saturday evening. A record of a sea voyage will be only interesting to

you who love me, but I must give it to you that you may know what to

expect if you ever undertake it; but first, I must sum it all up by saying that

of all horrors, of all physical miseries, tortures, and distresses, a sea

voyage is the greatest . . . The Liverpool paper this morning, after

announcing our arrival says: "The GREAT WESTERn, notwithstanding

she encountered throughout a series of most severe gales, accomplished

the passage in sixteen days and twelve hours."

To begin at the moment I left New York: I was so absorbed by the

pain of parting from you that I was in a state of complete apathy with

regard to all about me. I did not sentimentalize about "the receding

shores of my country;" I hardly looked at them, indeed. Friday I was

awoke in the middle of the night by the roaring of the wind and sea and

SUCH motion of the vessel.

The gale lasted all Saturday and Sunday, strong from the North, and as

we were in the region where the waters of the Bay of Fundy run out and

meet those of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, afterwards we had a strong cross

sea. May you never experience a "cross sea." . . . Oh how I wished it had

pleased God to plant some little islands as resting-places in the great waste

of waters, some resting station. But no, we must keep on, on, with

everything in motion that your eye could rest on. Everything tumbling

about . . . We lived through it, however, and the sun of Sunday morn rose

clear and bright. A pilot got on board about seven and at ten we were in

Liverpool.

We are at the Adelphi. Before I had taken off my bonnet Mr. Richard

LETTERS FROM ENGLAND

Rathbone, one of the wealthiest merchants here, called to invite us to dine

the next day . . . Mrs. Richard Rathbone has written that beautiful "Diary

of Lady Willoughby," and, what is more, they say it is a perfect reflect of

her own lovely life and character. When she published the book no one

knew of it but her husband, not even her brothers and sisters, and, of

course, she constantly heard speculations as to the authenticity of the book,

and was often appealed to for her opinion. She is very unpretending and

sweet in her manners; talks little, and seems not at all like a literary lady.

I like these people in Liverpool. They seem to me to think less of

fashion and more of substantial excellence than our wealthy people. I am

not sure but the existence of a higher class above them has a favorable

effect, by limiting them in some ways. There is much less show of

furniture in the houses than with us, though their servants and equipages

are in much better keeping. I am not sorry to be detained here for a few

days by my illness to become acquainted with them, and I think your

father likes it also, and will find it useful to him. Let me say, while I

think of it, how much I was pleased with the GREAT WESTERN. That

upper saloon with the air passing through it was a great comfort to me.

The captain, the servants, the table, are all excellent. Everything on

board was as nice as in the best hotel, and my gruels and broths beautifully

made. One of the stewardesses did more for me than I ever had done by

any servant of my own . . . Your father and Louisa were ill but three or

four days, and then your father read Tacitus and talked to the ladies, while

Louisa played with the other children.

The Adelphi, my first specimen of an English hotel, is perfectly

comfortable, and though an immense establishment, is quiet as a private

house. There is none of the bustle of the Astor, and if I ring my bedroom

bell it is answered by a woman who attends to me assiduously. The

landlord pays us a visit every day to know if we have all we wish.

LONDON, Sunday, November 1

Here I am in the mighty heart, but before I say one word about it I

will go on from Wednesday evening with my journal. On Thursday,

though still very feeble, I dined at Green Bank, the country-seat of Mr.

William Rathbone. I was unwilling to leave Liverpool without sharing

LETTERS FROM ENGLAND

with your father some of the hospitalities offered to us and made a great

effort to go. The place is very beautiful and the house full of comfortable

elegance.

The next morning we started for Birmingham, ninety-seven miles from

Liverpool, on our way to London, as I am unable to travel the whole way

in a day. On this railway I felt for the first time the superiority of

England to our own country. The cars are divided into first, second, and

third classes. We took a first-class car, which has all the comforts of a

private carriage.

Just as we entered Birmingham I observed the finest seat, surrounded

by a park wall and with a very picturesque old church, that I had seen on

the way. On enquiring of young Mr. Van Wart, who came to see us in

Birmingham (the nephew of Washington Irving), whose place it was, he

said it was now called Aston Hall and was owned by Mr. Watt, but it was

formerly owned by the Bracebridges, and was the veritable "Bracebridge

Hall," and that his uncle had passed his Christmas there.

On arriving here we found our rooms all ready for us at Long's Hotel,

kept by Mr. Markwell, a wine merchant. The house is in New Bond

Street, in the very centre of movement at the West End, and Mr. Markwell

full of personal assiduity, which we never see with us. He comes to the

carriage himself, gives me his arm to go upstairs, is so much obliged to us

for honoring his house, ushers you in to dinner, at least on the first day,

and seats you, etc., etc.

Do not imagine us in fresh, new-looking rooms as we should be in

New York or Philadelphia. No, in London even new things look old, but

almost everything IS old. Our parlor has three windows down to the

floor, but it is very dark. The paint is maple color, and everything is

dingy in appearance. The window in my bedroom looks like a horn

lantern, so thick is the smoke, and yet everything is scrupulously clean.

On our arrival, Boyd, the Secretary of Legation, soon came, and stayed to

dine with us at six. Our dinner was an excellent soup, the boiled cod

garnished with fried smelts, the roast beef and a FRICANDEAU with

sweet breads, then a pheasant, and afterwards, dessert.

This morning Mr. Bates came very early to see us, and then Mr. Joseph

LETTERS FROM ENGLAND

Coolidge, who looks very young and handsome; then Mr. Colman, who

also looks very well, Mr. Boyd and a Mr. Haight, of New York, and Mr.

Gair, son of Mr. Gair of Liverpool, a pleasing young man.

Monday Evening

This morning came Mr. Aspinwall, then Captain Wormeley, then Dr.

Holland, then Mrs. Bates, then Mr. Joseph Jay and his sister, then Tom

Appleton, Mrs. and Miss Wormeley, and Mrs. Franklin Dexter. Dr.

Holland came a second time to take me a drive, but Mrs. Bates being with

me he took your father. Mrs. Bates took me to do some shopping, and to

see about some houses. They are very desirous we should be in their

neighborhood, in Portland Place, but I have a fancy myself for the new

part of town. I have been so used all my life to see things fresh and

clean-looking, that I cannot get accustomed to the London dinge, and

some of the finest houses look to me as though I would like to give them a

good scouring. Tell Cousin M. never to come to England, she would be

shocked every minute, with all the grandeur. A new country is cleaner-

looking, though it may not be so picturesque.

I got your letters when I arrived here, and I wish this may give you but

a little pleasure they gave me. Pray never let a steamer come without a

token from both of you . . . With love to Grandma and Uncle Thomas,

believe me, with more love than ever before, ELIZABETH D.

BANCROFT

LETTERS FROM ENGLAND

LETTER: To W.D.B. and A.B.

LONDON, November 3, 1846

. . . This day, at five, your father had his first interview with Lord

Palmerston, who will acquaint the Queen with his arrival, and after she has

received him we shall leave our cards upon all the ministers and CORPS

DIPLOMATIQUE.

November 4th

Your father had a most agreeable dinner at Lord Holland's. He met

there Lord and Lady Palmerston, Lord Morpeth, Lord de Mauley, Mr.

Harcourt, a son of the Archbishop of York, etc. He took out Lady

Holland and Lord Morpeth, Lady Palmerston, the only ladies present.

Holland House is surrounded by 200 acres in the midst of the western part

of London, or rather Kensington. Lord Holland has no children, and the

family dies with him. They dined in the room in which Addison died.

To-day, to my surprise, came Lady Palmerston, which was a great

courtesy, as it was my place to make the first visit. She is the sister of

Lord Melbourne. Lord de Mauley has also been here. . . . To-day I have

been driving through some of the best streets in London, and my ideas of

its extent and magnificence are rising fast. The houses are more

picturesque than ours, and some of them most noble. The vastness of a

great capital like this cannot burst upon one at once. Its effect increases

daily. The extent of the Park, surrounded by mansions which look, some

of them, like a whole history in themselves, has to-day quite dazzled my

imagination.

November 5th

This morning, Thursday, came an invitation to dine with Lord and

Lady Palmerston on Saturday. Sir George Grey, another of the ministers,

came to see us to-day and Lord Mahon. Your father and I have been all

the morning looking at houses, and have nearly concluded upon one in

Eaton Square. We find a hotel very expensive, and not very comfortable

for us, as your father is very restive without his books about him. Mr.

LETTERS FROM ENGLAND

Harcourt also came to see us to- day. I mention as many of the names of

our visitors as I can recollect, as it will give you some idea of the

composition of English society . . . This moment a large card in an

envelope has been brought me, which runs thus: "The Lord Steward has

received Her Majesty's commands to invite Mr. Bancroft to dinner at

Windsor Castle on Thursday, 12th November, to remain until Friday,

13th." I am glad he will dine there before me, that he may tell me the

order of performances.

Friday, November 6th

. . . We had to-day a delightful visit from Rogers, the Poet, who is

now quite old, but with a most interesting countenance. He was full of

cordiality, and, at parting, as he took my hand, said: "Our acquaintance

must become friendship." Mr. Harcourt came again and sat an hour with

us, and has introduced your father at the Traveller's Club and the

Athenaeum Club. To-night came my new lady's maid, Russell. She

dresses hair beautifully, but is rather too great a person to suit my fancy.

Sunday Evening, November 8th

On Friday evening we met at Mrs. Wormeley's a cosy little knot of

Americans. The Dexters were staying there and there were Mr. and Mrs.

Atkinson and Miss Pratt, Mr. and Mrs. Aspinwall, Mr. and Miss Jay, Mr.

and Mrs. Putnam, Mr. Colman, Mr. Pickering, etc.

Wednesday Evening

On Monday we came to our HOME, preferring it to the hotel, though

it is not yet in order for our reception, and we have not yet all our servants.

Last evening we dined with Lord Morpeth at his father's house. His

family are all out of town, but he remains because of his ministerial duties.

Lord Morpeth took me out and I sat between him and Sir George Grey.

Your father took out Lady Theresa Lewis, who is a sister of Lord

Clarendon. She was full of intelligence and I like her extremely. Baron

and Lady Parke (a distinguished judge), Lady Morgan, Mr. Mackintosh,

Dr. and Mrs. Holland (Sidney Smith's daughter), and Mr. and Mrs.

Franklin Dexter, with several others were the party.

During dinner one gentleman was so very agreeable that I wondered

who he could be, but as Lord Palmerston had told me that Mr. Macaulay

LETTERS FROM ENGLAND

was in Edinburgh, I did not think of him. After the ladies left the

gentlemen, my first question to Mrs. Holland was the name of her next

neighbor. "Why, Mr. Macaulay," was her answer, and I was pleased not

to have been disappointed in a person of whom I had heard so much.

When the gentlemen came in I was introduced to him and talked to him

and heard him talk not a little.

These persons all came the next day to see us, which gave rise to fresh

invitations.

This morning we have been driving round to leave cards on the

CORPS DIPLOMATIQUE, and Mr. Harcourt has taken me all over the

Athenaeum Club-house, a superb establishment. They have given your

father an invitation to the Club, a privilege which is sometimes sought for

years, Mr. Harcourt says. . . . Have I not needed all my energies? We

have been here just a fortnight, and I came so ill that I could hardly walk.

We are now at housekeeping, and I am in the full career in London society.

They told me I should see no one until spring, but you see we dine out or

go out in the evening almost every day. . . . For the gratification of S.D.

or Aunt I., who may wonder how I get along in dress matters, going out as

I did in my plain black dress, I will tell you that Mrs. Murray, the Queen's

dressmaker, made me, as soon as I found these calls and invitations

pouring in, two dresses. One of black velvet, very low, with short

sleeves, and another of very rich black watered silk, with drapery of black

tulle on the corsage and sleeves. . . . I have fitted myself with several

pretty little head-dresses, some in silver, some with plumes, but all white,

and I find my velvet and silk suit all occasions. I do not like dining with

bare arms and neck, but I must.

Tuesday, November 17th

Last evening we passed at the Earl of Auckland's, the head of the

Admiralty. The party was at the Admiralty, where there is a beautiful

residence for the first lord. . . . I had a long talk with Lord Morpeth last

evening about Mr. Sumner, and told him of his nomination. He has a

strong regard for him. . . . Not a moment have I had to a London "lion."

I have driven past Westminster, but have not been in it. I have seen

nothing of London but what came in my way in returning visits.

LETTERS FROM ENGLAND

LETTER: To I.P.D. LONDON,

November 17, 1846

My dear Uncle: I cannot help refreshing the remembrance of me

with you and dear Aunty by addressing a separate letter to you. . . .

Yesterday we hailed with delight our letters from home. . . . One feels in

a foreign land the absence of common sympathies and interests, which

always surround us in any part of our own country. And yet nothing can

exceed the kindness with which we have been received here.

Last evening I went to my first great English dinner and it was a most

agreeable one. . . . It seems a little odd to a republican woman to find

herself in right of her country taking precedence of marchionesses, but one

soon gets used to all things. We sat down to dinner at eight and got

through about ten. When the ladies rose, I found I was expected to go

first. After dinner other guests were invited and to the first person who

came in, about half-past ten, Lady Palmerston said: "Oh, thank you for

coming so early." This was Lady Tankerville of the old French family of

de Grammont and niece to Prince Polignac. The next was Lady Emily de

Burgh, the daughter of the Marchioness of Clanricarde, a beautiful girl of

seventeen. She is very lovely, wears a Grecian braid round her head like

a coronet, and always sits by her mother, which would not suit our young

girls. Then came Lord and Lady Ashley, Lord Ebrington, and so many

titled personages that I cannot remember half.

The dinner is much the same as ours in all its modes of serving, but

they have soles and turbot, instead of our fishes, and their pheasants are

not our pheasants, or their partridges our partridges. Neither have we so

many footmen with liveries of all colours, or so much gold and silver

plate. . . . The next morning Mr. Bancroft breakfasted with Dr. Holland

to meet the Marquis of Lansdowne alone. [Thursday] he went down to

Windsor to dine with the Queen. He took out to dinner the Queen's

mother, the Duchess of Kent, the Queen going with the Prince of Saxe-

Weimar, who was paying a visit at the Castle. He talked German to the

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LETTERSFROMENGLAND1LETTERSFROMENGLAND1846-1849ByElizabethDavisBancroftLETTERSFROMENGLAND2LETTER:TOW.D.B.ANDA.B.LIVERPOOL,October26,1846Mydearsons:ThankGodwithmethatweareoncemoreonTERRAFIRMA.Wearrivedyesterdaymorningatteno'clock,afteraveryroughvoyageandafterridingallnightintheChannelinatremendousgale...

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LETTERS FROM ENGLAND(从英特兰来的信)

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