Kwikset Rekeying Manual

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1
Contents
How a Lock Works . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Tools to Rekey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
How to Gauge a Kwikset Key . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Key Duplication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Masterkeying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Keying Master Cylinders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Rekeying Knobs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Rekeying Laurel Eggknob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Rekeying Knobs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
with a control key
Rekeying Knobs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
with a standard operating key but without a control key
Rekeying Knobs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
what to do if top pins and springs drop out during rekeying
Rekeying Levers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Rekeying Levers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
for Commercial Series levers
Rekeying Handlesets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Rekeying Deadbolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Rekeying 780 Deadbolt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
with a control key
Rekeying 780 & 980 Deadbolt . . . . . . . . . . . 30
without a control key
Rekeying 780 & 980 Deadbolt . . . . . . . . . . . 32
without a key or control key
Rekeying 980 Deadbolt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
what to do if top pins and springs drop out during rekeying
The Society Brass Collection
Rekeying Knobs & Levers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Rekeying Low Profile Deadbolt . . . . . . . . . . . 37
with existing key
Rekeying Low Profile Deadbolt . . . . . . . . . . . 38
without existing key or if springs have fallen out
Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
bitting . . . . . . . . . . . . key cuts that form the combination.
blade . . . . . . . . . . . . the portion of a key and/or milling.
bow . . . . . . . . . . . . . the portion of the key which serves as a
grip or handle.
bow stop . . . . . . . . . a type of stop located near the key bow.
chamber . . . . . . . . . any cavity in a cylinder plug and/or shell
which houses the tumblers.
combinate . . . . . . . . the pinning of the actual cuts on the key.
Control Key . . . . . . . available for most TITAN products, allows
removal of cylinder without dismantling
lock.
cylinder assembly . . holds the plug, pins, springs and cover.
cylinder guard . . . . . heavy duty cover for cylinder housing.
cylinder housing . . . contains the cylinder assembly.
cylinder removing tool for removing and replacing plug retainer.
gauge . . . . . . . . . . . . the act of determining the bitting of the key
handing . . . . . . . . . . the orientation of the knob, handle, or lever
with respect to a left or right sided door
(see illustration on page 20).
lever catch . . . . . . . . spring mounted piece, holds lever in place
locking bar . . . . . . . . prevents removal of UltraMax cylinder with-
out Control Key use or retainer removal.
mechanism module . keyed entry lockset assembly for new
keyed handlesets.
PK holes . . . . . . . . . Protecto Key, allows new homes to be
keyed to a builder’s key, and once home-
owner uses their key, builder is locked out.
plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . holds the bottom pins and keyway.
plug follower . . . . . . used to push the plug out and hold top
pins and springs in place while rekeying
plug.
plug retainer . . . . . . “C” style clip, holds plug in cylinder hous-
ing.
shear line . . . . . . . . . when the bottom pins are correct, a shear
line is created when the proper key is
inserted allowing rotation of plug.
shield . . . . . . . . . . . . for additional security on exterior knobs.
sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . assembly holding cylinder and lever.
spindle . . . . . . . . . . . two types; a round and half-round spindle.
spring cover . . . . . . . snap on cover to hold pin springs in place.
spring housing . . . . . holds return spring for lever or knob in
place.
tailpiece . . . . . . . . . . spindle like extension for deadbolts.
thumbpiece pin . . . . holds the handlesets thumbpiece in place.
Glossary of Terms
How a Lock Works
5-Pin System
Kwikset locks operate by matching the cuts on the keys with the bottom
pin tumblers inside the cylinder plug.
There are two sets of five pins in each lock, top and bottom, and a set of
springs. The top pins are all the same size and are flat on both ends. You
do not, at least right now, want to deal with top pins or springs.
You only want to deal with bottom pins, which are of different lengths (in
.023” increments) and are tapered on both ends.
For the lock to work, the cuts of the key must enable all five bottom pins
to be flush with the cylinder plug. This is called the shear line.
In the top photo, there is no shear line because some bottom pins are out
of place. That key won’t operate this lock.
Put in the correct key (middle photo) and all the pins line up to form the
shear line and the key will operate the lock (bottom).
When you rekey a lock, you simply replace the bottom pins according to
the cut combination of the key you want to use. And you can do all this
with a few very simple tools.
6-Pin System
UltraMax Security locks operate by matching the cuts on the keys with
the bottom pin tumblers inside the cylinder plug.
There are two sets of six pins in each lock, top and bottom, and a set of
springs. The top pins are all the same size and are flat on both ends.
You only want to deal with bottom pins, which are of different lengths (in
.023” increments) and are chamfered on both ends.
For the lock to work, the cuts of the key must enable all six bottom pins
to be flush with the cylinder plug. This area is called the shear line.
In the top photo (Figure 1), with no key or the incorrect key, some bottom
pins and some top pins block the shear line. That key won’t operate this
lock.
In the middle photo (Figure 2), with the correct key, all the pins line up at
the shear line. The key will turn and operate the lock (Figure 3).
When you rekey a lock, you simply replace the bottom pins according to
the “bitting” (cut combination) of the key you want to use.
Cut-Away View
of Lock Cylinder
Figure 1
Springs
Shear Line
Bottom Pins
Spring Cover
Top Pins
Plug
Springs
Shear Line
Bottom Pins
Spring Cover
Top Pins
Plug
Cut-Away View
of Lock Cylinder
Figure 2
Figure 3
Tools to Rekey
Inside a Kwikset/Society Brass Collection Rekeying Kit
are the different bottom pin sizes you need to rekey
a lock, a Key Gauge for reading the cuts on a key, a
Cylinder Removing Tool (affectionately known as a “pick-
le fork”), and a plug follower. This is a very simple device
which keeps lock parts from scattering across the room
when you remove the plug (which houses the pins, and
into which the key fits) from the cylinder.
There are also extra top pins, springs and other parts in the
kit, but you do not need to be concerned with those now.
(Shown: Keying Kit No. 272 contents)
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Cylinder Removing Tool
Plug Follower
Key Gauge
Control Key for UltraMax knobs
locks cut from key blank #87615
How to Gauge a Kwikset Key
Before you can rekey a lock, you have to know what pins to use. For
obvious security reasons, Kwikset doesn’t print key-cut combinations
on the packaging. We use this Key Gauge to find the key-cut combi-
nations. Before disassembling the lock, measure the cuts and write
down the numbers.
Hold the NEW key (the one with which you want this lock to be keyed
alike) and slide it into the gauge. ALWAYS gauge a key from the bow
(the bow being the part you hold in your fingers) end out. To measure,
position the flat portion of the first cut even with the “0” position of the
gauge, slide the key toward the narrowing end of the gauge until the key
stops at the correct “step”. This will always be between two numbers
and the cut number is the one to the RIGHT of the key. Here it is a 3.
Position the next cut and move the key down the gauge until it
stops. The second cut of this key is a 2. You can slide the gauge or
the key, the result is the same. The first cut comes after the shoulder
next to the bow.
Do the same for the third cut which is a 4. Remember, always read
the number to the right of the key. Also, remember to read the cuts from
the bow of the key out (the bow being the part you hold with your fingers).
1
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
2
4
7 6 5 432 10
5
7
6
5
432
10
Positions
1 2 3 4 5
Combination
32462
6
It’s also a good idea to double-check that you are reading the correct
cut each time. In this case, cut number four is a 6.
Finally, the last cut: a 2. So we have a key with a cut combination of
3-2-4-6-2 (if this is a UltraMax Security key, there will be six cuts
to gauge). Of course, you’ve written that down as you went along.
When the time comes, you’ll know exactly which pins to select.
3
Locate the special “control key” which is cut specifically for the
combination of your lock, but with a notch on the bottom of the key
blade.
NOTE: If not available, cut a blank “control key” to match
existing key.
3
Key Duplication
Instructions for duplicating cuts from a five pin Kwikset key to a six pin Kwikset or Society Brass key. This permits
Kwikset and Society Brass to be keyed alike.
Measure the Kwikset key and write down the key cut combination.
These will be the depths required for positions 2 through 6 on the 6
pin key. Save the results for re-pinning the cylinder.
The key duplicator must be of the type that stops against the keys top
shoulder. Insert both the Kwikset key and the key blank. Positions 2
through 6 are then cut. Position 1 will be bypassed.
1
2Kwikset key Key blank
Depth keys are used to duplicate the remaining cut in position 1 of
the key. Select depth at random from the 3 keys supplied. Only posi-
tion 1 has been cut, to prevent contact with any other cut. The cylin-
der will be pinned to this key cut.
Insert both the depth key and the previously cut key in the key duplica-
tor. Now position 1 of the key is cut to match the depth key. Additional
keys may now be duplicated in the usual manner.
4Depth key Kwikset key
38
Rekeying Low Profile
Deadbolt
without existing key
or if springs have fallen out
Step-by-step instructions for:
1 2
3
Slide spring cap back with awl or small slotted screwdriver.
Remove springs and top pins, then remove E-clip and re-key plug.
After replacing pins and springs, slowly slide cap back on.
After re-pinning, replace plug and apply E-clip and torque blade.
If you slide this slowly, your springs will not fly.
4
Load top pins (.180) and springs from top, slide spring cover back
on, pressing the springs down, one at a time, with a small slotted
screwdriver, as you slide cap over them.
5
E
Keying Master Cylinders
Model 740 cylinder is illustrated. Other cylinders are keyed in same manner.
Remove plug clip
Push plug clip (1) off with screwdriver or cylinder removing tool,
using a side-to-side motion.
A
Remove plug
Insert key and turn plug 1/4 turn clockwise. Push plug out of cylinder
with plug following tool (2) and leave in cylinder. the plug following
tool will keep the top tumbler pins and springs in place.
B
Drop pins out of plug.
C
Key measurement
Measure cuts of key or keys as illustrated, and write down key cut
combinations.
7
6
5
432
10
FOR ALL KWIKSET
USING .02
D
For random keying
Random keying uses only one key. For multiple keys, refer to page
6 (Masterkeying). Insert key into plug. Drop bottom pins into proper
holes with pin numbers that match measured depths. Tops of pins
should be flush with outside diameter of plug.
Protecto Keying
Larger kits are capable of Protecto Keying. This is used for new con-
struction and similar to Masterkeying. Use 3 balls in place of a #2
master Pin. Builders key will have a cut two increments deeper than
homeowners random key in selected chamber.
PIN SPRINGS
TOP PIN
SHEARLINE
PK BALLS
BOTTOM PIN
BUILDERS KEY CUT
F
Rekeying Knobs
Tab
1
Cylinder
Removing Tool
Round Spindle
Stem
Stem
2
Cylinder
Removing Tool
Stem
Spring
Housing
3
Round Spindle
Cylinder Removing Tool
4
Be sure to remove key from cylinder before starting. In order to
remove the round spindle, align the tab so it is perpendicular to the
bottom of the half-round, as shown at right.
Insert the pointed end of the Cylinder Removing Tool into the end of
the spindle and turn until the tab is lined up with the stems.
Insert small end of the Cylinder removing Tool at an angle against
stem, sliding under edge of spring housing. Push in firmly on retainer.
Hold the lock with the spindle down and it will fall out. If not, keep pres-
sing with the tool and use your thumb to slide the round spindle out.
If the round spindle rotates, you will need to repeat steps 1
- 4.
Forked End
of Cylinder
Removing Tool
Half
Round
Spindle
Spring Housing
5
Half
Round
Spindle
6
To remove the cylinder, place the forked end of the tool down the
half-round spindle through spring housing. You’ll see a hole there,
and you have to fit the forked end of the Cylinder Removing Tool
under the top of that hole and pry it open.
Once you have “opened” the spring housing, slide the tool all the
way in until it stops. Be firm, but not forceful. Keep the Cylinder
Removing Tool perpendicular to the half-round spindle at all times.
Step-by-step instructions for:
Half Round
Spindle
Cylinder Removing Tool
78
With the Cylinder Removing Tool all the way in, put your other hand
over the outside of the knob, covering the cylinder and plug.
The cylinder will come right out in your hand. For most, this is the
most difficult part of rekeying. It takes practice to get the tool in
under the spring housing, and getting just the right motion and pres-
sure to pop the cylinder loose.
11
Plug Follower
12
Plug Follower
Plug
13 14
Slide the EXISTING key for this lock into the keyway and turn the key
about 45° to the right or left. Keep key at this angle for next step.
Be sure not to let key cylinder slide out.
Still holding the plug firmly in the cylinder, use the flat end of the
plug follower (the notched end is for a different kind of cylinder) to
PUSH the plug out gently and evenly from the rear. Push it steadily,
do not pull the plug.
Keep pushing until the tool sticks out at least an inch. Leave it in
place until you reassemble. Carefully remove the plug, holding
it by the key and don’t turn it.
Now you can see the bottom pins in the plug. Turn it over to dump
them out and discard them. It’s not worth the time and possible sort-
ing errors to restock them.
Cylinder
Removing
Tool Plug Retainer
9
Plug Retainer
Cylinder Removing Tool
10
Use the forked end of the Cylinder Removing Tool to disengage plug
retainer.
Then use the small end to free it completely. Use care not to deform
plug retainer.
21 22
Put the plug retainer back in from the side of the spring cylinder as
shown and use the Cylinder Removing Tool to snap it back into place.
Be sure the inside edges of the retainer line up with grooves in the plug.
Insert the key and turn it back to the vertical position, in line with the
spring cover on top of the cylinder.
17
Spring Cover
Plug Follower
Plug
18
19
Spring Cover
20
Install pins one by one, from the front (bow) to the back (tip) and be
sure they are all flush with the top surface of the plug. A pin which
is too long will prevent plug insertion with the key installed. A pin
which is too short will cause the lock to malfunction.
Now all you have to do is reassemble the plug into the cylinder hous-
ing in exactly the reverse order. Start by placing the end of the plug
against the end of the plug follower. Again, turn the key so it is about
45° to the right or left of the spring cover. Then slowly and smoothly
PUSH the plug follower back into the cylinder with the plug.
When it’s all the way in the cylinder, turn the key so it is in line with
the spring cover on top of the cylinder. You’re done with the plug fol-
lower, but hold the plug and cylinder firmly together.
This is important. Hold the plug all the way into the cylinder with your
thumb. Making sure the key is still in line with the pin cover, pull out
the key. Keep pressure on the plug until the key is out.
15 16
Checking the key bitting (combination) you gauged earlier, you’ll
select the pins which match those cuts from the appropriate com-
partments in the Rekeying Kit. Example: 3-2-4-6-2. A No. 3 bottom
pin to a No. 3 key cut depth, a No. 2 to a No. 2, etc.
Put the new key into the plug and, working from the bow (front) end
of the plug, drop the first pin into its chamber – here a No. 3. Some
people find using their fingers easier, others prefer tweezers. Either
way, it takes some patience to deal with these tiny pins.
摘要:

1ContentsHowaLockWorks.....................2ToolstoRekey.........................3HowtoGaugeaKwiksetKey.............4KeyDuplication........................5Masterkeying..........................6KeyingMasterCylinders.................7RekeyingKnobs.......................8RekeyingLaurelEggknob...........

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