How To Grow Weed

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The Joys of an Herb Garden at Home; v.3

REMEMBER, it's up to you to inform your friends, family, neighbours and co-workers that we

have been lied-to, cheated, relieved of freedoms, happiness, privacy, civil rights and liberties by

the WOD.

Hemp prohibition is a political issue driven by big business interests and it's damn well time we

turn these policies around through extreme civil-disobedience. Grow it everywhere, they can't get

it all...

Hemp laws are immoral.

Hemp can save the forests, the planet and us.

Prohibition laws create crime and black markets.

Taxing drugs would pay for treatment of addicts.

350,000 people die every year from smoking tobacco.

150,000 people die every year from drinking alcohol.

0 people die every year from smoking pot.

Cannabis could potentially save .5 million lives every year in the US alone.

The CIA is the worlds' biggest cocaine dealer.

The CIA would rather you smoke crack than pot.

The War on Drugs is a campaign of fear and mind control; a war on civil liberties.

Stop political prison sentences in our time.

Stop the promotion of poisons and the prohibition of medicines.

Stop the lies.

Tell the truth.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

OVERVIEW

GENETICS AND THE PLANT

INDOORS & OUTDOORS - CONSTANT HARVEST STRATEGY

PLANTING INDOORS

SHELF GROWING

RECYCLING

LIGHT

SEA OF GREEN

GERMINATION

VEGETATIVE GROWTH

FLOWERING

HYDROPONICS

PLANTING OUTDOORS

GUERRILLA GARDENING

SOIL GROWING

SECURITY

PLANT FOOD AND NUTRIENTS

PH AND FERTILIZERS

FOLIAR FEEDING CO2

VENTING

TEMPERATURE

PESTS

TRANSPLANTING

EARLY SEXING

REGENERATION

PRUNING

HARVESTING AND DRYING

CLONING

BREEDING

SINSEMILLIA

SINSE SEEDS

ODOURS AND NEGATIVE IONS

OXYGEN

SAFETY AND PRIVACY

DISTILLED WATER

BIRTH CONTROL PILLS

SEED AND BUD STORAGE

REVIEW

OVERVIEW

There are few things in life as good as your own herb, grown by yourself at home out in the

garden and indoors in pots... Oregano, Dill, Basil, Sage and other herbs are all easy to grow.

Mint will take over the whole yard if you let it. Fresh mint and celantro are incredible in salads

and oriental dishes. But it all comes down to a truly motivational herb that is your friend and

mine, a great healer and teacher to those that know it well.

Most people think of gardens as a seasonal, yearly project, but it's actually less time consuming

and more rewarding to keep the garden going year round. If one were to attempt to grow year

round, indoor gardening techniques will be needed at least during winter to keep the garden

producing. You will have herb fresh at all times, there is no worry of mass storage through the

winter and spring, it requires less space, and once established, requires only minimal attention

every week to keep it producing at optimal levels.

The best part of being a gardener is it connects you to the earth. It connects you with nature, and

is spiritually enriching. Try giving your plants energy by beaming good thoughts and energy at

them every time you visit them. I find this helps me as much as it helps them; my plants seem to

respond to it favourably.

GENETICS AND THE PLANT

It's very important to start with good genetics. You should attempt to find seeds from local

gardeners that are acclimated and bred for local climate and best floral characteristics. Potency,

aroma, fast growth, early maturation, resistance to fungus and pests. All of these factors are

considered by the seasoned gardener and you will benefit enormously by finding a friend to get

you started on the journey that never ends...

Attempt to find an Indica/Sativa hybrid if possible, as this will have the best high and good

characteristics for indoor growth as well. Indica plants have a heavy, stony high that is tiresome,

and sativas' are hard to grow indoors due to high light requirements, and late flowering traits, so

a hybrid can be bread that will have the energetic, cerebral high of the sativa and the early

maturation tendencies of the Indica plant.

The Indica plant is easily recognized by its extremely broad leaves that are very rounded on the

sides. The Sativa has very narrow, finger-like leaves. A hybrid will have qualities of both and

have leaves that are a cross of these two types, thinner than an Indica, but much broader than a

Sativa. It is possible to recognize a good hybrid by the leaves once you know what to look for.

Look for seeds that are dark brown or light grey. Some may have dark lines inset into these

colours, like tiger stripes. White, small seeds are immature and should not be planted.

INDOORS & OUTDOORS - CONSTANT HARVEST STRATEGY

One of the best solutions to energy verses output for most home gardeners is to use outdoor light

for flowering and use continuous light indoors for germination and vegetative growth. This will

take advantage of the natural light/dark cycle and cut your energy use in half compared to the

same operation indoors. A small greenhouse can be built of Filon fibreglass or PVC sheets that is

innocuous and looks much like a storage shed or tool shed so it's not likely to raise suspicions.

In fact, a large shed of metal or plywood can be modified with a luminous roof of PVC, glass,

fibreglass or plastic sheet, and some strains that do not require a great deal of light will grow

well. Such a shed will discourage fly-by sightings and keep your business your own! It also

allows you to keep out rats and gophers, keeps out the neighbour kids, and can be easily locked

up. It will also give you an opportunity to actually plant in the ground if you desire, and this is

the best way to avoid root-bound plants (if your not using hydroponics), and get bigger harvests.

In winter, indoor space is used to start new seedlings or cuttings to be placed outside in the

spring, using natural sunlight to ripen the plants. This routine will provide at least 3

outdoor/greenhouse harvests per year. If more space is available to constantly be starting

indoors and flowering 2nd harvest plants outdoors, harvests are possible every 60 days in many

areas, with a small indoor harvest in the winter as a possibility as well.

The basic strategy of year round production is to understand the plant has two growth cycles. At

germination the plant enters into a vegetative state and will be able to use all the continuous

light you can give it. This means there is no dark cycle required. The plant will photosynthesis

constantly and grow faster than it would outdoors with long evenings. Photosynthesis stops

during dark periods and the plant uses sugars produced to build during the evening. This is not a

requirement and the plant will grow faster at this stage with continuous photosynthesis (constant

light).

Once the plant is 12-18" tall, weather permitting, it can be forced to start flowering by placing it

outside in the Spring or Fall. (For Summer outdoor flowering, the night must be artificially

lengthened in the greenhouse to "force" the plants to flower. See FLOWERING chapter.)

Moving the plants to 10-13 hour light periods (moving it outside) with uninterrupted darkness

(no bright lights nearby) will force the plant to flower. It will ripen and be 2-3' when ready to

harvest. When a plant is moved from continuous indoor light to a 10-13 hour day outside, it will

start to flower in anticipation of oncoming winter. Vegetative starts moved outside March 1st,

will be ripe by May 1. Vegetative starts moved outside on May 1 will be ripe by July 1. Starts

moved outside Sept 1 are picked by Nov. 1st. In Winter, operations are moved indoors and a

crop is planted for seed in anticipation of planting outdoors the next summer, or just for some

extra winter stash.

Keep in mind that the "man" is looking for plants in the Sept./Oct./Nov. time-frame, and may

never notice plants placed outside to flower in April. Be smart, make your big harvest in May,

not October!

PLANTING INDOORS

A small indoor space should be found that can be used to germinate seeds; these vegetative

starts are placed outside to mature in the spring after last freezes are over. The space can be a

closet, a section of a bedroom, a basement area, an attic or unused bathroom. Some people

devote entire bedrooms to growing.

The space must be light leak proofed, so that no suspicious light is seen from outside the house.

This could invite fuzz or rip-offs.

The space should be vented. Opening the door of a closet can be enough ventilation if the space

is not lit by big lights that generate a lot of heat. Separate exhaust and incoming air vents are

best. One at the top of the room to exhaust air into the attic or out the roof, and one to bring in

air from an outside wall or under-floor crawl space. Use fans from old computer cabinets,

available from electronic liquidators for $5 each. Dimmer swithes can be used to regulate the

speed/noise of the fans. Use silicon to secure the fans to 4-6" PVC pipe pushed through a round

hole cut in the floor and ceilings. Use lots of silicon to damp the fans vibrations, so that the walls

do not resonate to the fans' ocsilations.

Line the walls with aluminum foil, dull side out to diffuse the light and prevent hot-spots, or

paint the walls bright white to reflect light. Aluminized mylar, 1 mil thick is best.($20 for 25

feet of a 4' wide roll.) Mirrors are not good to use, since the glass eats light!

Line the floor with plastic in case of water spills, etc. Set up a voltage interrupt socket and be

sure the electrical wiring will handle the lamps your going to use. Always place ballasts for HID

lamps on a shelf, so they are above floor level, in case of water spills. Spacers place on the floor

under a ballast will work too.

A shelf above the main grow area can be used to clone cuttings and germinate seedlings. It will

allow you to double the area of your grow space and is an invaluable storage area for plant food,

spray bottles and other gardening supplies. This area stays very warm, and no germination

warming pad will be needed, so this arrangement saves you $.

Hang a light proof curtain to separate this shelf from the main area when used for flowering.

This will allow constant lights on the shelf and dark periods in the main grow area. Velcro can

be used to keep the curtain in place and ties can be used to roll it up when tending the garden.

Black vinyl with white backing works best.

Now you need light. A couple of shop lights will be fine if you just want

to start plants inside and then take them outside to grow in a small greenhouse. They can be

purchased with bulbs for about $10 each, or without bulbs for around $8. Try to find them on

sale. Use one Cool White and one Warm Light type bulb in each to get the best light spectrum

possible for plant growth. Do not use expensive Grow Lux type bulbs, as they do not put out as

much light, and therefor do not work as well in most situations (go figure). If Cool White is all

you can find, or afford, use them. They work fine, and are by far the cheapest.(About $1-2

each.)

SHELF GROWING

Shelf gardening with fluorescents may be the trend of the future, since the materials are

so inexpensive, and easy to obtain. Fluorescent lamps are great for shelf gardening. In this

system, many shelves can be placed, one above the other, and fluorescent lamps are used on

each shelf. Some shelves have 24 hour lighting, some have 12 hour lighting (for flowering).

Two areas are best, perhaps with one other devoted to cloning and germination of seed.

Shelf gardening assumes your going to keep all plants 3' or shorter at maturity, so all

shelves are 3-4 feet apart. Less light is necessary when you have plants that are this short and

forced to mature early.

One drawback to a shelf garden like this is that it is very time consuming to adjust the

lamp height every day, and it is harder to take a vacation for even a week with no tending of the

garden. This applies mostly to the vegetative stage, when plants are growing as much as an inch

per day. Lamps on the flowering shelves are not adjusted nearly as often.

Normally, the lamps should be kept within 2 inches of the tops of the plants, with the

plants arranged such that they get progressively taller as the end of the lamps go up, so that all

plants are within this 2" range. This is an ideal however, and if you do go on vacation, adjust the

lamps so that your sure the plants will not be able to grow up to the lamps within that length of

time. If enough flourecents are used to completely saturate the shelf with light, the spacing issue

will not create spindly plants. They will mearly grow a little slower if the lamps are not very

close to them.

An alternative is to use fluorescent lamps for cloning, germination and early seedling

growth on the top shelf of a closet, then switch over to HPS for heavy vegetative growth and/or

flowering in the main closet area.

Position the HPS such that it won't need adjustment, at the top most possible point in the

closet or room. Most HPS installations will not require lamp height adjustment. Just attach the

lamp to the underside of shelf or ceiling as high as possible, and if you want to get a few plants

closer to it, put them on a temporary shelf, box or table to get them closer to the lamp.

A shelf is all that is necessary with this type of setup, preferably at least 18" wide, up to

about 24" maximum. This area must be painted a very bright white, or covered with aluminum

foil, dull side out to reflect light back to the plants. (Dull side out prevents hot-spots; diffuses

light better.) Paint the shelf white too. Or, use aluminized mylar, a space blanket, or any silvery

surface material. Do not use mirrors, as the glass soaks up light.

Hang shop lamps from chains and make sure you can adjust them with hooks or some

other type of mechanism so they can be kept as close to the plants as possible at all times (1-2").

If the lamps are too far from the plants, the plants could grow long, spindly stems trying to reach

the lamp, and will not produce as much bud at maturity. This is due to internode length being

much longer. This is the length of stem between each set of leaves. If it is shorter, there can be

more internodes, thus more branches, thus a plant that provides more buds in less space at

harvest time.

Shelf gardening is sometimes referred to as Sea of Green, because many plants are

grown close together, creating a green canopy of tops that are grown and matured quickly, and

the next crop is started and growing concurrently in a separate area of continuous light. Clones

are raised in a constant light shelf, until they start to grow well vegetatively, then placed on a 12

hour per day shelf to flower.

LIGHT

Indoors, 2000 lumens per sq. ft. is about as low as you want to go indoors. If you get

under this mark, plant growth will certainly not go as fast as possible, and internode/stem length

will increase. Also, light distance to plants will be much more critical. Daily adjustments to the

lamps will be necessary, meaning you get no vacations.

2500 lumens psf should be a good target, and 3000 is optimal if your going to inject or

enrich CO2 levels (more on that later).

High Intensity Discharge lamps are the best solution for most indoor growers. HID

lamps come in 3 basic flavours: High Pressure Sodium (HPS), Metal Halide (MH) and Mercury

Vapor. Metal Halide is an improved spectrum, higher intensity Mercury Vapour design. HPS is

a yellowish sort of light, maybe a bit pink or orange. Same as some street lamps.

HPS lamps can be used to grow a crop from start to finish. Tests show that the HPS crop

will mature 1 week later than a similar crop under MH, but it will be a bigger yield, so it's better

to wait the extra week.

The easiest HID to buy, and least expensive initially are the fluorescent and mercury

vapour lamps. MV will put out about 8000 lumens per 175 watts, and 150 watts of HPS puts out

about 15k lumens, so HPS is almost twice as efficient. But the colour spectrum from MV lamp

output is not as good. HPS is high in reds, which works well for flowering, while the Metal

Halide is rich in blues, needed for the best vegetative growth. Unfortunately, MV lamps provide

the worst spectrum for plant growth, but are very inexpensive to purchase.They are not

recommended, unless you find them free, and even then, the electricity/efficiency issues

outweigh the initial costs saved.

400 watt HPS will output around 45k lumens. For every 500 watts of continuous use,

you use about $20 a month in electricity, so it is evident that a lamp taking half the power to

output the same lumens (or twice the lumens at the same power level) will pay for itself in a

year or so, and from then on, continuous savings will be reaped. This is a simple initial cost vs.

operating costs calculation, and does not take into account the faster growth and increased yield

the HPS lamp will give you, due to more light being available. If this is factored into the

calculation the HPS lamp will pay for itself with the first crop, when compared to MV or

fluorescent lamps, since it is easily twice as efficient and grows flowers faster and bigger.

Lamp Type Watts Lumens per bulb Total efficiency

Fluorescent Bulb 40 3 000 400 watts = 30k lumens

Mercury Vapour 175 8 000 400 watts = 20k lumens

Metal Halide 400 36 000 400 watts = 36k lumens

High P. Sodium 400 45 000 400 watts = 45k lumens

Notice the Mercury Vapour lamps are less efficient than the fluorescent (FL), and can

not be positioned as close to the plants, so the plants will not be able to use as much of the MV

light. The light distribution is not as good either. MV lamps simply are not suitable for indoor

gardening. Use fluorescent, MH, or HPS lamps only. Halogen arc lamps generate too much heat

and not very much light for the wattage they use, and are also not recommended, even though the

light spectrum is suitable for decent growth.

There is a new type of HPS lamp called Son Agro, and it is available in a 250, 1000, and

400 watt range. The 400 is actually 430 watts; they have added 30 watts of blue to this bulb. It is

a very bright lamp (53k lumens) and is made for greenhouse use. These bulbs can be purchased

to replace normal HPS bulbs, so they are an option if you already own a HPS lamp. The beauty

of this bulb is that you do not give up most of the advantages of MH lamps, such as minimal

internode spacing and early maturation, like most HPS users do, and you have all advantages of

a HPS lamp. One bulb does it all.

Internodal length of plants grown with the Son Agro are the shortest ever seen with any

type of lamp. Plants grown under this lamp are incredibly bushy, compact and grow very fast.

Son Agro bulbs however, do not last as long as normal HPS bulbs. There is something like a

25% difference in bulb life.

Metal Halide (MH) is another option, and is available in both a 36k and 40k lumen bulbs

for the 400 watt size. The Super Bulb (40k) is about $10-15 more, and provides an extra 4000

lumens. I think the Super Bulb may last longer; if so, that makes it the way to go. Halide light is

more blue and better than straight HPS for vegetative growth, but is much less efficient than

HPS. It is possible to purchase conversion bulbs for a MH lamp that convert it to HPS, but the

cost of the conversion bulb is more expensive than the colour corrected Son Agro bulb, so I

would recommend just buying the Son Agro HPS. Even though it costs more initially, you get

more for your energy dollar later, and it's much easier to hang than 10 fluorescent tubes.

If you have a MH 36k lumen lamp burning at 400 watts and a 53k lumen HPS burning at

430 watts, which is better efficiency wise? Which will provide a better yield? Obviously, the

Son Agro HPS, but of course, the initial cost is higher. Actually, the ballast will add about 10%

to these wattage numbers.

The Son Agro bulb will prove much better than the MH for any purpose. The MH bulb

does not last as long, but is cheaper. Compare $36 for a 400 watt MH bulb vs. $40 for the HPS

bulb. Add $15 for the Son Agro HPS. The HPS bulb life is twice as long. 10k hours vs. 21k

hours. The Son Agro is 16k hours or so. Still, longer bulb life and more light add up to more for

your energy dollar long term.

Horizontal mounting of any HID is a good idea, as this will boost by 30% the amount of

light that actually reaches the plants. Most HID's sold for indoor garden use these days are of this

horizontal mounting arrangement.

HPS is much less expensive to operate than any other type of lamp, but comes in the 70

watt size at the home improvement stores. This size is not very efficient, but blows away FL in

efficiency, so they might be an alternative to FL for very small operations, like 9 sq. feet or less.

Over 9 sqr. feet, you need more light than one of these lamps can provide, but you could use two

of them. 70 watt HPS lamps cost about $40 each, complete. Two lamps would be 140 watts

putting out about 12k lumens, so it's better than FL, but a 150 watt HPS puts out about 18k

lumens, the bulb life is longer, bulbs are cheaper and the lamp more efficient to operate. The

biggest problem is that the mid size lamps like the 150 and 250 watt HPS are almost as

expensive to buy as the larger 400's. For this reason, if you have room for the larger lamp, buy

the 400. If your going pro, a 1080 watt model is available too, but you might find there is better

light distribution from two 400's rather than one large lamp. Of course, the two smaller lamps are

more expensive to purchase than one large lamp, so most people choose the larger lamp for

bigger operations.

Heat build up in the room is a factor with HID lamps, and just how much light the plants

can use is determined by temperature, CO2 levels, nutrient availability, PH, and other factors.

Too big of a lamp for a space will make constant venting necessary, and then there is no way to

enrich CO2, since it's getting blown out of the room right away.

Bulb Costs: the bulb cost on the 70 watt HPS is $24, the 150 is only $30, and the 400 is

only $40. So you will spend more to replace two 70 watt bulbs than you will to replace one 400

watt HPS. (Go figure.) Add that up with the lower resale value on the 70's (practically nothing)

and the fact that they are being modified and are not suited to this application, and it becomes

evident that $189 for a 250 HPS lamp, or $219 for a 400, might just be worth the price. Keep in

mind that for $30 more, you can have the larger lamp (400watt) and it puts out 20k lumens more

light than the smaller lamp. Not a bad deal!

Here is the breakdown on prices (from memory):

Type Complete Cost Bulb Cost Bulb Life Lumens

HPS 400 $219 $40 18k hours 50k

MH 400 $175 $37 10k hours 36k

Son Argo400 $235 $55 15k hours 53k

Super Mh400 $190 $45 ?? 40k

MH 250 $149 $32 ?? 21k

HPS 250 $165 $36 ?? 27k

HPS argo250 $180 $53 ?? 30k

MH 150 $139 $25 ?? 14k

HPS 175 $150 $30 ?? 17k

If your looking for these types of lamps, look in the Yellow Pages under gardening,

nurseries, and lighting for indoor gardening stores in your area.

SEA OF GREEN

Sea of Green (SOG) is the theory of harvesting lots of small plants, matured early to get

the fastest production of buds available. Instead of growing a few plants for a longer period of

time, in the same space many smaller plants are grown that mature faster and in less time. Thus,

less time is required between crops. This is important to you when the electricity bill comes

each month. One crop can be started while another is maturing, and a continuous harvest, year

round can be maintained. 4 plants per square foot will be a good start for seedlings. 1 plant per

square foot will allow plenty of room for each plant to grow a large top cola, but will not allow

for much bottom branching. This is OK since indoors, these bottom branches are always shaded

anyway, and will not grow very well unless given additional light and space. The indoor grower

quickly realizes that plants that are too tall do not produce enough at the bottom to make the

extra growing time used worth while. An exception to this rule would be if it is intended the

plants are to go outside at some point, and it is expected that the light/shading issue will not be

a factor at that point.

The plants, if started at the same time, should create what is called a "green canopy" that

traps most of the light at the top level of the plants. Little light will penetrate below this level,

since the plants are so close together. The gardener is attempting to concentrate on the top of the

plant, and use the light and space to the best advantage, in as little time as possible. Use of nylon

poultry fence or similar trellising laid out over the green canopy will support the plants as they

start to droop under.

the weight of heavy fruiting tops. Stakes can be used too, but are not as easy to install for plants

in the middle and back of the room, where reach is more difficult.

It's easy to want big plants, since they will produce more yield per plant, but it's usually

better with limited space to grow smaller plants that mature faster and pack into smaller spaces.

Sea of Green was developed in Holland. Instead of fitting 4 large plants in that small room, fit

12 small ones on a shelf above 12 other small plants. These plants take only 3-4 months to

mature from germination to ripe buds, and harvesting takes place constantly, since there is both

a vegetative and flowering area devoted to each, with harvests every 45-60 days.

It's not the size of the plant, but the maturity and quality of the product that counts.

Twice as many plants grown half as big will fill the grow space twice as fast, so harvests take

place almost twice as often. Get good at picking early flowering plants, and propagate only

those that are of the best quality.

6" square containers will allow for 4 plants per square foot. You may also gauge by the

size of your growing tray (for passive hydroponics); I like kitty litter boxes. ($3 each at Target)

Planted 4 per square foot, (for vegetative seedlings) a 12 sq. ft. closet will hold 48 seedlings on

one shelf. In my case, I use 4" rockwool cubes that fit into kitty litter pans @ 12 cubes per pan. I

can get 5 pans onto a 12 sq. ft. closet upper shelf, so that is 60 seedlings on one small shelf!

For flowering indoors, 1 plant per sq. ft. is a good rule of thumb for SOG. If less plants

are grown in this size space, it will take them longer to fill the space, thus more electricity and

time will be used to create the same amount of product. If more than one plant p.s.f. is

attempted, the grower will soon find that plants thus crowded tend to be more stem than bud, and

the total harvest may be reduced, so be cautious.

It's good to avoid "topping" your plants if you want them to grow as fast as possible. It's

better just to grow 2 or 4 times more plants, since they will produce more, faster, in the same

space. Also, "training" plants with twist-ties is a great way to get them to bush out a bit. Just take

any type of plastic or paper twist tie and wrap it around the top of the plant, then pull it over until

the top is bent over 90-180 degrees and then attach this to the main stem lower on the plant. Do

this for one week and then release the plant from it's bond. The plant can be trained in this

fashion to take less vertical space and to grow bushier, to fill the grow space and force lower

limbs to grow upward and join the green canopy. This technique takes advantage of the fact that

if the top is pulled over, it creates a hormonal condition in the plant that makes it bush out at all

lower internodes.

Sea of Green entails growing to harvest the main cola (top) of the plant. Bottom

branches are trimmed to increase air flow under the "blanket" of growing tops. Use these

cuttings for clones, as they are the easiest part of the plant to root. It's also the fastest part of the

plant to regenerate after flowering has occurred.

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