
through and unavoidable, like a garrulous drunk making uncalled-for conversation.
Whereas its form once sprang from a collective energy of purpose, it is now defined by
the manufacture of money. If its parks were not protected, they too would now be
built upon, and out to the very edge of the street, in order to maximise office space.
Its residents are divided; secretive and arrogant, briskly condescending, or confused
and gentle, slightly disappointed. For some it is still a sanctuary of civilisation, to
others a living Satanophony. There are no glitzy showtunes written about this city,
only a handful of rumpty-tumpty music hall dirges.
Once, though, it was a living, breathing thing, its buildings homogenously palladian
and baroque, its roads spacious, its parks tranquil. This is the London of collective
memory; warm solid buildings of dirty white stone, dingy soot-streaked stations with
a curiously sharp metallic smell, children trudging through wet green parklands, low
sunlight in narrow streets, and people, people everywhere. A city traversed by
railway cuttings and canals, and at its heart the curious silence of a broad grey river,
glistening like dulled steel.
The war, the developer, the councilman, the car, each has taken a turn in London's
destruction. It is a city scoured by perpetual motion. All that is left now are pieces of
brilliant brittle shell, the remnants of a centuries-long celebration of life, fractured
glimpses and glances of what was, and what might once have been.
And yet...
There are places that still catch the city's fleeting spirit. Little to the West, and not
much in the centre, where only visitors stroll on a Sunday in the Aldwych. But there's
Greenwich Park at early evening, the river mist settling below the statue of General
Wolfe. The silver glow of St James's Park after dark, gothic turrets beyond the
silhouettes of planes and chestnuts, above lakeside beds of tulips and wallflowers.
Charing Cross Road beneath early morning drizzle. Bloomsbury in snow. The
dolphin-entwined lamps of the Embankment, when a hesperidian sun ignites the
Thames and the lights flick on like strings of iridescent pearls. St Paul's at daybreak,
stark and unforgiving, less barren than Trafalgar Square but just as immutable.
Sicilian Avenue, ornately silent on a hot, dead afternoon. The arches of Regent Street
like stone sunrises, sweeping across sideroads. These and a thousand other points of
brightness remain, skin-prickling intersections on a vast spiritual grid.
And there are its people; resilient, private, wilful, defiantly odd. There's little can be
changed in them. Their ability to trust is the city's greatest strength – and its most
devastating curse.
London is a city only halfway in light. Not all of its walls are bounded in brick and
stone. Its mysteries are diminished but not gone. Its keys are well hidden because the
key-holders are invisible to the public. A few last selfish truths still remain here,
cushioned and sheltered by power and class and money. They are protected by
nothing more or less than the will of the landowners to survive for one more century.
Nothing you can do will ever bring them out into the light, for the enemy is too
elusive. He shape-shifts among the buildings, daring you to find him, knowing your
task is quite impossible.
'Dear God! The very houses seem asleep, And all that mighty heart is lying still!'
wrote William Wordsworth at Westminster Bridge early one morning.
Perhaps one day, some brave Prometheus will carry the light into the city, and bring
the sleeping giant fully back to life. Then, reader, beware.