
Imprisoned with the Pharoas
The road now rose abruptly, till we finally reached our place of transfer between the
trolley station and the Mena House Hotel. Abdul Reis, who capably purchased our
Pyramid tickets, seemed to have an understanding with the crowding, yelling and
offensive Bedouins who inhabited a squalid mud village some distance away and
pestiferously assailed every traveler; for he kept them very decently at bay and secured an
excellent pair of camels for us, himself mounting a donkey and assigning the leadership
of our animals to a group of men and boys more expensive than useful. The area to be
traversed was so small that camels were hardly needed, but we did not regret adding to
our experience this troublesome form of desert navigation.
The pyramids stand on a high rock plateau, this group forming next to the northernmost
of the series of regal and aristocratic cemeteries built in the neighborhood of the extinct
capital Memphis, which lay on the same side of the Nile, somewhat south of Gizeh, and
which flourished between 3400 and 2000 B.C. The greatest pyramid, which lies nearest
the modern road, was built by King Cheops or Khufu about 2800 B.C., and stands more
than 450 feet in perpendicular height. In a line southwest from this are successively the
Second Pyramid, built a generation later by King Khephren, and though slightly smaller,
looking even larger because set on higher ground, and the radically smaller Third
Pyramid of King Mycerinus, built about 2700 B.C. Near the edge of the plateau and due
east of the Second Pyramid, with a face probably altered to form a colossal portrait of
Khephren, its royal restorer, stands the monstrous Sphinx - mute, sardonic, and wise
beyond mankind and memory.
Minor pyramids and the traces of ruined minor pyramids are found in several places, and
the whole plateau is pitted with the tombs of dignitaries of less than royal rank. These
latter were originally marked by mastabas, or stone bench- like structures about the deep
burial shafts, as found in other Memphian cemeteries and exemplified by Perneb's Tomb
in the Metropolitan Museum of New York. At Gizeb, however, all such visible things
have been swept away by time and pillage; and only the rock-hewn shafts, either sand-
filled or cleared out by archaeologists, remain to attest their former existence. Connected
with each tomb was a chapel in which priests and relatives offered food and prayer to the
hovering ka or vital principle of the deceased. The small tombs have their chapels
contained in their stone mastabas or superstructures, but the mortuary chapels of the
pyramids, where regal Pharaohs lay, were separate temples, each to the east of its
corresponding pyramid, and connec ted by a causeway to a massive gate-chapel or
propylon at the edge of the rock plateau.
The gate-chapel leading to the Second Pyramid, nearly buried in the drifting sands,
yawns subterraneously south-east of the Sphinx. Persistent tradition dubs it the 'Temple
of the Sphinx'; and it may perhaps be rightly called such if the Sphinx indeed represents
the Second Pyramid's builder Khephren. There are unpleasant tales of the Sphinx before
Khephren - but whatever its elder features were, the monarch replaced them with his own
that men might look at the colossus without fear.
It was in the great gateway-temple that the life-size diorite statue of Khephren now in the
Cairo museum was found; a statue before which I stood in awe when I beheld it. Whether