
located and loaded our luggage aboard. He was a short, cheerful, grinning,
bowlegged boy of indeterminate age, who carried his life's savings around with
him in the form of a wide grin bright with gold fillings. Sparkling black eyes
greeted us under the bill of a battered old baseball cap, around which a scrap
of fluttering red scarf had been knotted for good luck, or to keep the devils
away, or maybe both. The rest of his costume consisted of muddy tennis shoes,
a ragged pair of khaki shorts, and a cast-off olive drab army shirt.
The moon had risen while we were at dinner, and the river traffic was at its
pitch as we cast off, chugging noisily, into the main channel. Brightly lit
sampans and junks floated by us; boats of every description were loading at
docks heaped with tins of pitch, bales of raw, unprocessed rubber from the
great Chup plantations to the northeast of the capital. We saw workmen, naked
to the waist, laboring under flaring torches at sacks of fragrant yieng yieng
bark from which incense is made, shoving about baskets filled with garish
peppercorns, stalks of green bananas, bundles of peacock feathers, cords of
cut bamboo, bundles of turtle shells, anteater skins and kapok. Amusingly, one
boat was unloading cases of Coca Cola bottles.
Our boat threaded its noisy path through an arrangement of mud dikes, canal
locks, and waterways. Wooden cowbells went click-clack in fields beside the
river; oil lamps gleamed in the waxed paper windows of farmhouses and huts as
we sailed downriver under star-crowded skies. Peasants worked late in flooded,
shallow ricefields, bent double and looming like black cutouts against the
moon. We sailed past bamboo forests, lemon groves, ungainly stands of banana
trees, and thick banyans. In one hillside farm a clumsy Zadrugar tractor,
imported from Yugoslavia, rumbled, belching black, oily smoke.
Noel and I struck up a conversation with our friendly pilot. Charlie Phuong,
it turned out, was not a native of Phnom Penh but hailed from a hamlet with
the delicious name of Battangbang, which I gathered was the capital of the
northwestern province. He had nothing but contempt and derision for the locals
hereabouts, whom he considered city slickers, more interested in organized
sports, movies from Hong, Kong, and political squabbles, than in the
traditional elements of Cambodian life. He was very uneducated and very
superstitious, what with his crimson head scarf to frighten off
night-wandering demons, and the copper bracelet he wore clasped about one
muscular brown bicep which was a good-luck charm. He chattered in friendly,
amiable fashion while we glided down the star-mirroring river, which widened.
He had worked nearly a calendar year for Sir Malcolm, whom he held in
good-humored veneration-his name for the British archaeologist was Lok Thom,
which means something like "Mr. Big"-and, although uneducated, he had picked
up a surprising vocabulary in English: pungent, earthy, shot through with
French cuss-words and the names of Cambodian deities and demons, all mixed
together in a patois so inimitable I will not even attempt to reproduce it in
these pages.
We passed something like an enormous, densely black, floating island, around
the edge of which Charlie Phuong maneuvered the laboring little steam-launch
while purpling the night air with a torrent of profanity in at least three
languages. This floating island turned out to be a logjam, drifting downstream
from the forest around Kratie. Native lumberjacks, only their red,
devil-frightening head-scarves visible in the gloom, scampered nimbly about
this gigantic raft of logs, keeping careful eyes peeled to be certain the
heavy hardwood logs of teak were buoyed up on hollow bamboo trunks.
I smoked cigarette after cigarette, sitting in the prow, staring dreamily out
on the starry skies, the moonlit river, and the jungle thickets which lined
the river to each side; Noel dozed in the rear, pillowed on our luggage. The
trip would take hours.