Botany - (ebook) - Planning a Home Greenhouse

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COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND AT COLLEGE PARK
UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND EASTERN SHORE
perature can fluctuate greatly; close supervision would
be required if a manual ventilation system were in use.
Therefore, unless close monitoring is possible, both
hobbyists and commercial operators should have auto-
mated systems with thermostats or other sensors.
Thermostats can be used to control individual units,
or a central controller with one temperature sensor can
be used. In either case, the sensor or sensors should be
shaded from the sun, located about plant height away
from the sidewalls, and have constant airflow over
them. An aspirated box is suggested; the box houses
each sensor and has a small fan that moves greenhouse
air through the box and over the sensor (Figure 5). The
box should be painted white so it will reflect solar heat
and allow accurate readings of the air temperature.
Watering Systems
A water supply is essential. Hand watering is accept-
able for most greenhouse crops if someone is available
when the task needs to be done; however, many hobby-
ists work away from home during the day. A variety of
automatic watering systems is available to help to do
the task over short periods of time. Bear in mind, the
small greenhouse is likely to have a variety of plant
materials, containers, and soil mixes that need different
amounts of water.
Time clocks or mechanical evaporation sensors can
be used to control automatic watering systems. Mist
sprays can be used to create humidity or to moisten
seedlings. Watering kits can be obtained to water plants
in flats, benches, or pots.
CO2and Light
Carbon dioxide (CO
2
) and light are essential for
plant growth. As the sun rises in the morning to pro-
vide light, the plants begin to produce food energy
(photosynthesis). The level of CO
2
drops in the green-
house as it is used by the plants. Ventilation replenishes
the CO
2
in the greenhouse. Because CO
2
and light
complement each other, electric lighting combined with
CO
2
injection are used to increase yields of vegetable
and flowering crops. Bottled CO
2
, dry ice, and com-
bustion of sulfur-free fuels can be used as CO
2
sources.
Commercial greenhouses use such methods.
Alternative Growing Structures
A greenhouse is not always needed for growing
plants. Plants can be germinated in ones home in a
warm place under fluorescent lamps. The lamps must
be close together and not far above the plants.
A cold frame or hotbed can be used outdoors to
continue the growth of young seedlings until the weath-
er allows planting in a garden. A hotbed is similar to the
cold frame, but it has a source of heat to maintain prop-
er temperatures.
For More Information
For more information on environmental control sys-
tems, refer to Extension Bulletin 351 Greenhouse
Heating, Circulation, and Ventilation Systems. For
further discussion of hotbeds and cold frames, see Fact
Sheet 633 Hotbeds and Cold Frames for Starting Annual
Plants, also available from your county Cooperative
Extension Service office.
What should a gardener consider when planning to
build a small hobby greenhouse? What materials should
be used to build it? Does it need heating and cooling?
Where can it be placed on the property? There are
many considerations, and careful planning is important
before a project is started.
Building a home greenhouse does not need to be
expensive or timeconsuming. It can be small and sim-
ple, with a minimum investment in materials and
equipment, or it can be a fully equipped, fancy, auto-
mated conservatory. The final choice of the type of
greenhouse will depend on the growing space desired,
home architecture, available sites, and costs. The green-
house must, however, provide the proper environment
for growing plants.
Regardless of the size and type of greenhouse you
choose, consider how much time you have to manage
the system. Do not be too ambitious; some new green-
house owners find they do not have as much time as
they thought. On the other hand, it is a misconception
that greenhouses require constant attention. The envi-
ronment can be maintained with minimal upkeep using
automatic controls, which operate the heating, ventila-
tion, watering, humidity, and artificial lighting systems
when no one is home. A hobbyist should invest in
automatic controls and start with easy-to-care-for plants.
Sometimes the hobby grows into a business, so give
some thought to the possibility of expanding your
greenhouse in the future.
Constructing the greenhouse yourself can make the
project more enjoyable and less expensive if you are
handy with tools. Prefabricated greenhouses can be pur-
chased, or they can be built of simple frames. However,
only qualified electricians and plumbers should install
the automatic systems.
Location
The greenhouse should be located where it gets max-
imum sunlight. The first choice of location is the south
or southeast side of a building or shade trees. Sunlight
all day is best, but morning sunlight on the east side is
sufficient for plants. An east side location captures the
most November to February sunlight. The next best
sites are southwest and west of major structures, where
plants receive sunlight later in the day. North of major
structures is the least desirable location and is good only
for plants that require little light. Morning sunlight is
most desirable because it allows the plants food produc-
tion process to begin early; thus, growth is maximized.
Deciduous trees, such as maple and oak, can effec-
tively shade the greenhouse from the intense late after-
noon summer sun; however, they should not shade the
greenhouse in the morning. Deciduous trees also allow
maximum exposure to the winter sun because they shed
their leaves in the fall. Evergreen trees that have foliage
year round should not be located where they will shade
the greenhouse because they will block the less intense
winter sun. You should aim to maximize winter sun
exposure, particularly if the greenhouse is used all year.
Remember that the sun is lower in the southern sky in
winter causing long shadows to be cast by buildings and
evergreen trees (Figure 1).
Good drainage is another requirement for the site.
When necessary, build the greenhouse above the sur-
Planning a Home Greenhouse
Fact Sheet 645
8
David S. Ross
Extension agricultural engineer
Department of Agricultural Engineering
P94/R96
Figure 5. Thermostats in the middle of the greenhouse
in a shaded, white, and aspirated box
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30,1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, University of Maryland at College Park,
and local governments. Thomas A. Fretz, Director of Cooperative Extension Service, University of Maryland at College Park.
The University of Maryland is equal opportunity. The University’s policies, programs, and activities are in conformance with pertinent Federal and State laws and regulations on nondis-
crimination regarding race, color, religion, age, national origin, sex, and disability. Inquiries regarding compliance with Title VI of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, as amended; Title IX of the
Educational Amendments; Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973; and the Americans With Disabilities Act of 1990; or related legal requirements should be directed to the Director
of Personnel/Human Relations, Office of the Dean, College of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Symons Hall, College Park, MD 20742.
rounding ground so rainwater and irrigation water will
drain away. Other site considerations include the light
requirements of the plants to be grown; locations of
sources of heat, water, and electricity; and shelter from
winter wind. Access to the greenhouse should be conve-
nient for both people and utilities. A workplace for pot-
ting plants and a storage area for supplies should be
nearby.
Types of Greenhouses
A home greenhouse can be attached to a house or
garage, or it can be a freestanding structure. The chosen
site and personal preference can dictate the choices to
be considered. An attached greenhouse can be a half
greenhouse, a full-size structure, or an extended win-
dow structure. There are advantages and disadvantages
to each type.
Attached Greenhouses
Lean-to. A lean-to greenhouse is a half greenhouse,
split along the peak of the roof, or ridge line (Figure 2).
Lean-tos are useful where space is limited to a width of
approximately 7 to 12 feet, and they are the least expen-
sive structures. The ridge of the lean-to is attached to a
building using one side and an existing doorway, if
available. Lean-tos are close to available electricity,
water, and heat. The disadvantages include some limita-
tions on space, sunlight, ventilation, and temperature
control. The height of the supporting wall limits the
potential size of the lean-to. The wider the lean-to, the
higher the supporting wall must be. Temperature con-
trol is more difficult because the wall that the green-
house is built on may collect the suns heat while the
translucent cover of the greenhouse may lose heat
rapidly. The lean-to should face the best direction for
adequate sun exposure. Finally, consider the location of
windows and doors on the supporting structure and
that snow, ice, or heavy rain might slide off the roof of
the house onto the structure.
Even-span. An even-span is a full-size structure that
has one gable end attached to another building (Fig-
ure 2). It is usually the largest and most costly option,
but it provides more usable space and can be length-
ened. The even-span has a better shape than a lean-to
for air circulation to maintain uniform temperatures
during the winter heating season. An even-span can
accommodate two to three benches for growing crops.
Window-mounted. A window-mounted green-
house can be attached on the south or east side of a
house. This glass enclosure gives space for conveniently
growing a few plants at relatively low cost (Figure 2).
The special window extends outward from the house a
foot or so and can contain two or three shelves.
Freestanding Structures
Freestanding greenhouses are separate structures;
they can be set apart from other buildings to get more
sun and can be made as large or small as desired
(Figure 2). A separate heating system is needed, and
electricity and water must be installed.
The lowest cost per square foot of growing space is
generally available in a freestanding or even-span green-
house that is 17 to 18 feet wide. It can house a central
bench, two side benches, and two walkways. The ratio
of cost to the usable growing space is good.
When deciding on the type of structure, be sure to
plan for adequate bench space, storage space, and room
for future expansion. Large greenhouses are easier to
and a two-stage thermostat are needed to control the
operation.
A two-speed motor on low speed delivers about 70
percent of its full capacity. If the two fans have the same
capacity rating, then the low-speed fan supplies about
35 percent of the combined total. This rate of ventila-
tion is reasonable for the winter. In spring, the fan oper-
ates on high speed. In summer, both fans operate on
high speed.
Refer to the earlier example of a small greenhouse. A
16-foot wide by 24-foot long house would need an esti-
mated ft
3
per minute (cubic feet per minute; CFM)
total capacity; that is, 16 ×24 ×12 ft
3
per minute. For
use all year, select two fans to deliver 2,300 ft
3
per
minute each, one fan to have two speeds so that the
low-speed rating is about 1,600 ft
3
per minute and the
high speed is 2,300 ft
3
per minute. Adding the second
fan, the third ventilation rate is the sum of both fans on
high speed, or 4,600 ft
3
per minute.
Some glass greenhouses are sold with a manual ridge
vent, even when a mechanical system is specified. The
manual system can be a backup system, but it does not
take the place of a motorized louver. Do not take short-
cuts in developing an automatic control system.
Cooling
Air movement by ventilation alone may not be ade-
quate in the middle of the summer; the air temperature
may need to be lowered with evaporative cooling. Also,
the light intensity may be too great for the plants.
During the summer, evaporative cooling, shade cloth,
or paint may be necessary. Shade materials include roll-
up screens of wood or aluminum, vinyl netting, and paint.
Small package evaporative coolers have a fan and
evaporative pad in one box to evaporate water, which
cools air and increases humidity. Heat is removed from
the air to change water from liquid to a vapor. Moist,
cooler air enters the greenhouse while heated air passes
out through roof vents or exhaust louvers. The evapora-
tive cooler works best when the humidity of the outside
air is low. The system can be used without water evapo-
ration to provide the ventilation of the greenhouse. Size
the evaporative cooler capacity at 1.0 to 1.5 times the
volume of the greenhouse. An alternative system, used
in commercial greenhouses, places the pads on the air
inlets at one end of the greenhouse and uses the exhaust
fans at the other end of the greenhouse to pull the air
through the house.
Controllers/Automation
Automatic control is essential to maintain a reason-
able environment in the greenhouse. On a winter day
with varying amounts of sunlight and clouds, the tem-
Small fans with a cubic-foot-per-minute (ft
3
/min)
air-moving capacity equal to one quarter of the air vol-
ume of the greenhouse are sufficient. For small green-
houses (less than 60 feet long), place the fans in diago-
nally opposite corners but out from the ends and sides.
The goal is to develop a circular (oval) pattern of air
movement. Operate the fans continuously during the
winter. Turn these fans off during the summer when the
greenhouse will need to be ventilated.
The fan in a forced-air heating system can some-
times be used to provide continuous air circulation.
The fan must be wired to an on/off switch so it can run
continuously, separate from the thermostatically con-
trolled burner.
Ventilation
Ventilation is the exchange of inside air for outside
air to control temperature, remove moisture, or replen-
ish carbon dioxide (CO
2
). Several ventilation systems
can be used. Be careful when mixing parts of two
systems.
Natural ventilation uses roof vents on the ridge line
with side inlet vents (louvers). Warm air rises on con-
vective currents to escape through the top, drawing cool
air in through the sides.
Mechanical ventilation uses an exhaust fan to move
air out one end of the greenhouse while outside air
enters the other end through motorized inlet louvers.
Exhaust fans should be sized to exchange the total vol-
ume of air in the greenhouse each minute.
The total volume of air in a medium to large green-
house can be estimated by multiplying the floor area
times 8.0 (the average height of a greenhouse). A small
greenhouse (less than 5,000 ft
3
in air volume) should
have an exhaust-fan capacity estimated by multiplying
the floor area by 12.
The capacity of the exhaust fan should be selected at
one-eighth of an inch static water pressure.The static
pressure rating accounts for air resistance through the
louvers, fans, and greenhouse and is usually shown in
the fan selection chart.
Ventilation requirements vary with the weather and
season. One must decide how much the greenhouse will
be used. In summer, 1 to 1
1
/
2
air volume changes per
minute are needed. Small greenhouses need the larger
amount. In winter, 20 to 30 percent of one air volume
exchange per minute is sufficient for mixing in cool air
without chilling the plants.
One single-speed fan cannot meet this criteria. Two
single-speed fans are better. A combination of a single-
speed fan and a two-speed fan allows three ventilation
rates that best satisfy year round needs. A single-stage
2 7
Figure 1. Select location carefully. Note where the shade line occurs in both the winter and summer.
Winter sun
Summer sun
摘要:

UNIVERSITYOFMARYLANDEASTERNSHOREUNIVERSITYOFMARYLANDCOLLEGEPARKCOOPERATIVEEXTENSIONSERVICEUNIVERSITYOFMARYLANDATCOLLEGEPARKUNIVERSITYOFMARYLANDEASTERNSHOREperaturecanfluctuategreatly;closesupervisionwouldberequiredifamanualventilationsystemwereinuse.Therefore,unlessclosemonitoringispossible,bothhobb...

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