
black Caribes and the descendants of East Indian slaves brought by the British to work the sugar
plantations upriver. There are no roads into Livingston. One reaches it either by ferry from Puerto
Morales or by powerboat from Reunión at the junction of the Río Dulce and the Petén highway. The
majority of the houses are neat white stucco affairs with red tile roofs. The natives are unspoiled by
tourism. In the hills above the village is a lovely tiered waterfall called Siete Altares (Seven Altars), so
named because of the seven pools into which the stream whose terminus it forms plunges on its way to
the sea. Local delicacies include turtle stew. . . ."
It sounded perfect, a paradise cut off from the grim political realities of the mother country, a place where
a man could go to seed in the classic style, by day wandering the beach in a Bogart suit, waking each
morning slumped over a table, an empty rum bottle beside his elbow, a stained deck of cards scattered
around him with only the queen of hearts showing its face. A few days after reading the guidebook entry,
following journeys by plane, train, and an overcrowded ferry, I arrived in Livingston. A few days after
that, thanks to a meeting in one of the bars, I took possession of a five-room house of yellow stucco
walls and concrete floors belonging to a young Spanish couple, doctors who had been studying with
local curanderos and wanted someone to look after their pets--a marmalade cat and a caged
toucan--while they toured for a year in the United States.
I have traveled widely all my life, and it has been my experience that guidebook descriptions bear little
relation to actual places; however, though changes had occurred--most notably the discovery of the
village by the singer Jimmy Buffett, whose frequent visits had given a boost to the tourist industry,
attracting a smattering of young travelers, mainly French and Scandinavians who lived in huts along the
beach--I discovered that the guidebook had not grossly exaggerated Livingston's charms. True, a
number of shanty bars had sprung up on the beach, and there was a roach-infested hotel not mentioned
in the book: three stories of peeling paint and cell-sized rooms furnished with torn mattresses and broken
chairs. But the Caribe houses were in evidence, and the turtle stew was tasty, and the fishing was good,
and Siete Altares was something out of a South Seas movie, each pool shaded by ceiba trees, their
branches dripping with orchids, hummingbirds flitting everywhere in the thickets. And the natives were
relatively unspoiled, perhaps because the tourists kept to the beach, which was separated from the village
by a steep drop-off and which--thanks to the bars and a couple of one-room stores--provided them with
all the necessities of life.
Early on I suffered a domestic tragedy. The cat ate the toucan, leaving its beak and feet for me to find on
the kitchen floor. But in general, things went well. I began to work, my mind was clearing, and the edge
had been taken off my gloom by the growing awareness that other possibilities for happiness existed
apart from a neurotic career woman who was afraid to trust her feelings, was prone to anxiety attacks
and given to buying bracelets with the pathological avidity that Imelda Marcos once displayed toward the
purchase of shoes. I soon fell into a pleasant routine, writing in the mornings, working on a cycle of short
stories that--despite my intention of avoiding this pitfall--dealt with an unhappily married woman.
Afternoons, I would he in a hammock strung between two palms that sprouted from the patio of the
house, and read. Evenings, I would stroll down to the beach with the idea of connecting with one of the
tourist girls. I usually wound up drinking alone and brooding, but I did initiate a flirtation with an Odille
LeCleuse, a Frenchwoman in her late twenties, with high cheekbones and milky skin, dark violet eyes
and a sexy mouth that always looked as if she were about to purse her lips. She was in thrall--or so I'd
heard--to Carl Konwicki, an Englishman of about my own age, who had lived on the beach for two
years and supported himself by selling marijuana.
By all reports, Konwicki was a manipulator who traded on his experience to dominate less-seasoned
travelers in order to obtain sex and other forms of devotion, and I couldn't understand how Odille, an
intelligent woman with a degree in linguistics from the Sorbonne, could have fallen prey to the likes of
him. I spotted him every day on the streets of the village: an asthenic olive-skinned man, with a scraggly