
Concert Hall is a gilded sign, by Mucha, for the Cabaret Roberto, which offers popular
singers, comedians, dancers and trained animals in a single evening's entertainment.
Alexandra wishes to attend Roberto's. I promise her we shall go, even though I know she is
as likely as I am to change her mind in the next half-hour. She touches my cheek with warm
lips. I am enraptured by the city's beauty. I watch a green and gold tramcar, drawn by two
chestnut horses, as it moves towards Little Bohemia, the Jewish Quarter, where from
Monday to Thursday a market flourishes.
The tramcar reaches its terminus, near the market. The core of the market is in
Gansplatz but nowadays it has spread through surrounding streets and each street has
come to be identified by its stalls. In Baverninstrasse is second-hand clothing, linen, lace
and tapestries; in Fahnestrasse antiques and sporting-guns; in Hangengasse books,
stationery, prints; and in Messingstrasse fruit and vegetables, meat and fish; while the main
market has a little of everything, including Italian organ-grinders, gypsy fiddlers, mimes and
puppeteers. Stallholders and their customers haggle beneath bright stripes of the awnings,
all in the shadow of the Great Synagogue, said to be the largest in Europe. Her rabbis are
amongst the world's most famous and influential.
Dignified men, dark and learned, come and go on steps where gingerbread sellers
rest their trays, where little boys sell cigarettes out of inverted drums and their sisters, in
pretty tinsel, perform simple dances to attract attention to their cakes and sweets.
The stalls are crowded with toys, tools, jams and sausages, musical instruments and
domestic wares. Vendors shout their bargains, and sardonic hausfraus challenge them
above the noise of guitars, accordions, violins and hurdy-gurdies.
At the far end of Hangengasse a large crimson automobile, imported from France,
bucks and rumbles on its springs, its driver seated high above his passengers and wearing
the cap, goggles and overcoat of his calling so he resembles a comical lemur in his
profound sobriety. The chaffeur's gloved fingers squeeze a horn: a tin trumpet blown by a
mouse announces the progress of Juggernaut. The crowd divides, from curiosity rather than
fear, and the crimson machine is on its way to more fashionable parts, to Falfnersallee, the
Champs Elysees of Mirenburg, and the Restaurant Schmidt, all silver, mirrors and pale
yellow. Here the nouveaux riches display themselves, to the chagrin of waiters who until a
year or two ago served only Mirenburg's aristocracy. The upper classes, they say, have
been driven out by the vulgar owners of steamships and mechanical looms, whose wives
wear the pearls of ancient impoverished families about red throats and speak a kind of
German hitherto only heard in the Moravian district, the industrial suburb on the far side of
the river.
This class has come to be known as 'les sauvages' or'die Unbebaut', the subject of
cartoons in the illustrated papers and mockery in cabarets which these days all but fill
Kodaly Square, yet its money allows the journals and entertainments to flourish while its
trade, especially with Berlin, increases Waldenstein's prosperity.
At a large round table near the window, looking out upon the trees, the kiosks and the
traffic of Falfnersallee, sits in corpulent well-being, in English tweed and French linen,
Pasitch the Press King, a loyal supporter of the government of Prince Badehoff-Krasny and
believer in stronger ties with Germany. His newspapers persistently emphasise the
Austro-Hungarian threat and pillory an opposition favouring the views of Count Holzhammer
currently exiled to Vienna, where he is courted by those who believe firmly in a 'union'
between Bohemia and Waldenstein.
Herr Pasitch eats his Kalbsaxe and discusses international politics with his uncritical
sons and daughters. They are expecting a guest. My first memories of Mirenburg are of the
Restaurant Schmidt. Father had taken me to the city for a
eason. I had spent some part of the summer at a private academy before being sent on to
school in Heidelberg. I recall skiffs and tea-gardens. Mirenburg had seemed a haven of
peace and stability in Europe. I am inclined to resent any politics here. Mirenburg is a
retreat; I escape to her. I always expected to find an Alexandra in Mirenburg so I scarcely