I took this Mr. Tallman by the sleeve and told him to look over the side, ` explaining that the
sea had turned yellow. I am afraid Mr.. Tallman turned white himself instead, and turned something
else too-his back-looking as though he would have` struck me if he dared. It was comic enough, I
suppose-4heard some of the other passengers chuckling about it' afterward-but I don't believe I
have seen such hatred in a human face before. just then the captain came strolling up, and I-
considerably deflated but not-flattened yet, and thinking that he had not overheard Mr. Tallman
and me-mentioned for the final time that day that the water had turned yellow. "I know," the
captain said. "It's his country" (here he jerked his head in the direction of the pitiful Mr.
Tallman), "bleeding to death."
Here it is evening again, and I see that I stopped writing last night before I had so much
as described my first sight of ` the coast. Well, so be it. At home it is midnight, or nearly, and
the life of the cafds is at its height. How I wish that I were there now, with you, Yasmin, not
webbed among these red- and purple-clad strangers, who mob their own streets like an invading
army, and duck into their houses like rats into their holes. But you, Yasmin, or Mother, or
whoever: may read this, will want to know of my day-only you are sometimes to think of me as I am
now, bent over an old,: scarred table in a decayed room with two beds, listening to , the
hastening feet in the streets outside.
I slept late this morning; I suppose I was more tired from the voyage than I realized. By
the time I woke, the whole of ; the city was alive around me, with vendors crying fish and
fruits under my shuttered window, and the great wooden' wains the Americans call trucks rumbling
over the broken concrete on their wide iron wheels, bringing up goods from the ships in the
Potomac anchorage. One sees very odd teams here, Yasmin. When I went to get my breakfast (one.
must go outside to reach the lobby and dining room in these American hotels, which I would think
would be very inconvenient in bad weather) I saw one of these trucks with two oxen, a horse, and a
mule in the traces, which would have . made you laugh. The drivers crack their whips all the time.
The first impression one gets of America is that it is not as
poor as one has been told. It is only later that it becomes apparent how much has been handed down
from the previous century. The streets here are paved, but they are old and broken. There are
fine, though decayed, buildings everywhere (this hotel is one-the Inn of Holidays, it is called),
more modern in appearance than the ones we see at home, where for so long traditional architecture
was enforced by law. We are on Maine Street, and when I had finished my breakfast (it was very
good, and very cheap by our standards, though I am told it is impossible to get anything out of
season here) I asked the manager where I should go to see the sights of the city. He is a short
and phenomenally ugly man, something of a hunchback as so many of them are. "There are no tours,"
he said. "Not any more."
I -told him that I simply wanted to wander about by myself, and perhaps sketch a bit.
"You can do that. North for the buildings, south for the theater, west for the park. Do
you plan to go to the park, Mr. Jaffarzadeh?"
"I haven't decided yet."
"You should hire at least two securities if you go to the park-I can recommend an agency."
"I have my pistol."
"You'll need more than that, sir."
Naturally, I decided then and there that I would go to the park, and alone. But i have
determined not to spend this, the sole, small coin of adventure this land has provided me so far,
before I discover what else it may offer to enrich my existence.
Accordingly, I set off for the north when I left the hotel. I have not, thus far, seen
this city, or any American city, by night. What they might be like if these people thronged the
streets then, as we do, I cannot imagine. Even by clearest day, there is the impression of a
carnival, of some mad circus whose performance began a hundred or more years ago and has not ended
yet.
At first it seemed that only every fourth or fifth person suffered some trace of the
genetic damage that destroyed the old America, but as I grew more accustomed to the streets, and
thus less quick to dismiss as Americans and no more the unhappy old woman who wanted me to buy
flowers and the boy who dashed shrieking between the wheels of a truck, and began instead to look
at them as human beings-in other
words, just as I would look at some chance-met person on one of our own streets-I saw that there
was hardly a soul not marked in some way. These deformities, though they are individually hideous,
in combination with the bright, ragged clothing so common here, give the meanest assemblage the
character of a pageant. I sauntered along, hardly out of earshot of one group of street musicians
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