Botany - (ebook) - FRUIT, Getting Started With Small

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Home and Garden Mimeo #68 Getting Started with Small Fruits

Many small fruits—strawberries, currants, blackberries,

grapes, blueberries and raspberries—are well-suited to

Maryland’s growing conditions. Small fruit plants are generally

long lived. If you’re planning to grow them, pay special attention

to cultivar selection. Cultivars should be adapted to your soil and

climatic conditions. If possible, select cultivars with the fewest

insect and disease problems. This fact sheet lists recommended

cultivars for Maryland conditions. This is not an exhaustive list-

many other cultivars may be grown successfully.

BUYING PLANTS

All small fruit plants are self-fertile. Only one plant is

necessary for fruit production. However, blueberry yields and

fruit size are greater when two or more varieties, with a similar

bloom time, are planted together.

Small fruits are easy to propagate. Neighbors may offer you

cuttings from grapevines, runners (“daughter plants”) from

strawberry patches or suckers or divisions from established

bramble plants. In the last case, be aware that mature plants may

be symptomless carriers of virus diseases. Black raspberries are

especially susceptible to raspberry mosaic virus and should not

be planted near red types. Purchasing virus-free stock is

recommended. When planting raspberries and blackberries it is

also best to eradicate any wild blackberries within 50 yards.

Aphids can spread diseases from wild infected plants to your

cultivated plants. Currants, gooseberries, and ‘Jostaberry’ (a

cross between black currant and gooseberry) are hardy, produc-

tive members of the Ribes Family, that are underutilized in

Maryland gardens. Black currants are an alternate host for white

pine blister rust disease and until 1966 there was a federal

prohibition against growing them. It is now legal to grow

currants in Maryland. ‘Crusader’ and ‘Consort’ are two resistant

black cultivars. Red and white currants are all resistant to this

disease.

Buy the best nursery stock available from reputable nurser-

ies that guarantee their plants to be true to name, of high quality,

and packed and shipped correctly (a list of suppliers can be

found on page 4.) Place your order early, specifying cultivar,

size, grade of plants desired, and preferred time of shipment. It

is best to have the plants arrive when you are ready to set them

out. When your order arrives, unpack the bundles and inspect

the plants. The roots should be moist and have a bright, fresh

appearance. Shriveled roots indicate that the plants have been

allowed to freeze or dry-out in storage or transit. Such plants

seldom survive. Plant roots must be kept moist and free from

freezing temperatures at all times.

If the plants cannot be set out immediately, they should be

kept in cold storage by wrapping them loosely in a plastic bag

with some holes cut for ventilation, and storing them at a

temperature just above freezing. Moistend peat moss, sawdust

or shredded newspaper can be used to keep roots from drying.

Strawberry plants, in small quantities, may be held in the home

refrigerator for a few days. If refrigerated storage is not

available, remove the plants from the bundle, and carefully

plant them in a trench of moist soil in a shaded location (this is

called “heeling-in”). Pack the soil firmly around the roots to

eliminate all air pockets and to prevent the roots from drying

out.

PLANTING

Set out plants as soon as the soil can be worked in the

spring or one month before the first fall frost (mid- to late

September). Tissue-cultured bramble and strawberry plants,

however, are tender and should be planted after the last spring

frost. Select a full-sun location with deep, well-drained soil.

Blueberry, currant, gooseberry and wineberry plants will

produce a partial crop if grown in partial shade. The soil pH

should be in the 6.2 - 6.8 range, except for blueberries which

require a soil pH of 4.3 - 5.3. Large quantities of organic matter

should not be added to a small planting hole. Incorporate well-

rotted manure, compost or peat moss throughout the eventual

root zone. Set plants at the same depth as they were planted in

the nursery. Make the planting hole 2-3 times the rootball

width so the roots can be spread out. Keep young plants well

watered. Blueberries, in particular, will not tolerate water stress.

Local Governments - U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating

The University of Maryland is equal opportunity. The University’s policies, programs, and activities are in conformance with pertinent Federal and State laws and regulations on nondiscrimination regarding

race, color, religion, age, national origin, sex, and disability. Inquiries regarding compliance with Title VI of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, as amended: Title IX of the Educational Amendments; Section 504

of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973; and the Americans With Disabilities Act of 1990; or related legal requirements should be directed to the Director of Personnel/Human Relations, Office of the Dean, College

of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Symons Hall, College Park, MD 20742.

Educating People To Help Themselves

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