MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS(回忆与肖像)

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MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS
1
MEMORIES AND
PORTRAITS
By R. L. Stevenson
MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS
2
CHAPTER I. THE FOREIGNER
AT HOME
"This is no my ain house; I ken by the biggin' o't."
Two recent books (1) one by Mr. Grant White on England, one on
France by the diabolically clever Mr. Hillebrand, may well have set
people thinking on the divisions of races and nations. Such thoughts
should arise with particular congruity and force to inhabitants of that
United Kingdom, peopled from so many different stocks, babbling so
many different dialects, and offering in its extent such singular contrasts,
from the busiest over-population to the unkindliest desert, from the
Black Country to the Moor of Rannoch. It is not only when we cross
the seas that we go abroad; there are foreign parts of England; and the
race that has conquered so wide an empire has not yet managed to
assimilate the islands whence she sprang. Ireland, Wales, and the
Scottish mountains still cling, in part, to their old Gaelic speech. It was
but the other day that English triumphed in Cornwall, and they still show
in Mousehole, on St. Michael's Bay, the house of the last Cornish-
speaking woman. English itself, which will now frank the traveller
through the most of North America, through the greater South Sea
Islands, in India, along much of the coast of Africa, and in the ports of
China and Japan, is still to be heard, in its home country, in half a
hundred varying stages of transition. You may go all over the States,
and - setting aside the actual intrusion and influence of foreigners, negro,
French, or Chinese - you shall scarce meet with so marked a difference
of accent as in the forty miles between Edinburgh and Glasgow, or of
dialect as in the hundred miles between Edinburgh and Aberdeen.
Book English has gone round the world, but at home we still preserve
the racy idioms of our fathers, and every county, in some parts every
dale, has its own quality of speech, vocal or verbal. In like manner,
local custom and prejudice, even local religion and local law, linger on
MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS
3
into the latter end of the nineteenth century - IMPERIA IN IMPERIO,
foreign things at home.
In spite of these promptings to reflection, ignorance of his
neighbours is the character of the typical John Bull. His is a
domineering nature, steady in fight, imperious to command, but neither
curious nor quick about the life of others. In French colonies, and still
more in the Dutch, I have read that there is an immediate and lively
contact between the dominant and the dominated race, that a certain
sympathy is begotten, or at the least a transfusion of prejudices, making
life easier for both. But the Englishman sits apart, bursting with pride
and ignorance. He figures among his vassal in the hour of peace with
the same disdainful air that led him on to victory. A passing
enthusiasm for some foreign art or fashion may deceive the world, it
cannot impose upon his intimates. He may be amused by a foreigner as
by a monkey, but he will never condescend to study him with any
patience. Miss Bird, an authoress with whom I profess myself in love,
declares all the viands of Japan to be uneatable - a staggering pretension.
So, when the Prince of Wales's marriage was celebrated at Mentone by a
dinner to the Mentonese, it was proposed to give them solid English fare
- roast beef and plum pudding, and no tomfoolery. Here we have either
pole of the Britannic folly. We will not eat the food of any foreigner;
nor, when we have the chance, will we eager him to eat of it himself.
The same spirit inspired Miss Bird's American missionaries, who had
come thousands of miles to change the faith of Japan, and openly
professed their ignorance of the religions they were trying to supplant.
I quote an American in this connection without scruple. Uncle Sam
is better than John Bull, but he is tarred with the English stick. For Mr.
Grant White the States are the New England States and nothing more.
He wonders at the amount of drinking in London; let him try San
Francisco. He wittily reproves English ignorance as to the status of
women in America; but has he not himself forgotten Wyoming? The
name Yankee, of which he is so tenacious, is used over the most of the
great Union as a term of reproach. The Yankee States, of which he is
MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS
4
so staunch a subject, are but a drop in the bucket. And we find in his
book a vast virgin ignorance of the life and prospects of America; every
view partial, parochial, not raised to the horizon; the moral feeling
proper, at the largest, to a clique of states; and the whole scope and
atmosphere not American, but merely Yankee. I will go far beyond him
in reprobating the assumption and the incivility of my countryfolk to
their cousins from beyond the sea; I grill in my blood over the silly
rudeness of our newspaper articles; and I do not know where to look
when I find myself in company with an American and see my
countrymen unbending to him as to a performing dog. But in the case
of Mr. Grant White example were better than precept. Wyoming is,
after all, more readily accessible to Mr. White than Boston to the English,
and the New England self-sufficiency no better justified than the
Britannic.
It is so, perhaps, in all countries; perhaps in all, men are most
ignorant of the foreigners at home. John Bull is ignorant of the States;
he is probably ignorant of India; but considering his opportunities, he is
far more ignorant of countries nearer his own door. There is one
country, for instance - its frontier not so far from London, its people
closely akin, its language the same in all essentials with the English - of
which I will go bail he knows nothing. His ignorance of the sister
kingdom cannot be described; it can only be illustrated by anecdote. I
once travelled with a man of plausible manners and good intelligence - a
University man, as the phrase goes - a man, besides, who had taken his
degree in life and knew a thing or two about the age we live in. We
were deep in talk, whirling between Peterborough and London; among
other things, he began to describe some piece of legal injustice he had
recently encountered, and I observed in my innocence that things were
not so in Scotland. "I beg your pardon," said he, "this is a matter of
law." He had never heard of the Scots law; nor did he choose to be
informed. The law was the same for the whole country, he told me
roundly; every child knew that. At last, to settle matters, I explained to
him that I was a member of a Scottish legal body, and had stood the
MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS
5
brunt of an examination in the very law in question. Thereupon he
looked me for a moment full in the face and dropped the conversation.
This is a monstrous instance, if you like, but it does not stand alone in
the experience of Scots.
England and Scotland differ, indeed, in law, in history, in religion, in
education, and in the very look of nature and men's faces, not always
widely, but always trenchantly. Many particulars that struck Mr. Grant
White, a Yankee, struck me, a Scot, no less forcibly; he and I felt
ourselves foreigners on many common provocations. A Scotchman
may tramp the better part of Europe and the United States, and never
again receive so vivid an impression of foreign travel and strange lands
and manners as on his first excursion into England. The change from a
hilly to a level country strikes him with delighted wonder. Along the
flat horizon there arise the frequent venerable towers of churches. He
sees at the end of airy vistas the revolution of the windmill sails. He
may go where he pleases in the future; he may see Alps, and Pyramids,
and lions; but it will be hard to beat the pleasure of that moment.
There are, indeed, few merrier spectacles than that of many windmills
bickering together in a fresh breeze over a woody country; their halting
alacrity of movement, their pleasant business, making bread all day with
uncouth gesticulations, their air, gigantically human, as of a creature half
alive, put a spirit of romance into the tamest landscape. When the
Scotch child sees them first he falls immediately in love; and from that
time forward windmills keep turning in his dreams. And so, in their
degree, with every feature of the life and landscape. The warm,
habitable age of towns and hamlets, the green, settled, ancient look of
the country; the lush hedgerows, stiles, and privy path-ways in the
fields; the sluggish, brimming rivers; chalk and smock-frocks; chimes of
bells and the rapid, pertly-sounding English speech - they are all new to
the curiosity; they are all set to English airs in the child's story that he
tells himself at night. The sharp edge of novelty wears off; the feeling
is scotched, but I doubt whether it is ever killed. Rather it keeps
returning, ever the more rarely and strangely, and even in scenes to
MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS
6
which you have been long accustomed suddenly awakes and gives a
relish to enjoyment or heightens the sense of isolation.
One thing especially continues unfamiliar to the Scotchman's eye -
the domestic architecture, the look of streets and buildings; the quaint,
venerable age of many, and the thin walls and warm colouring of all.
We have, in Scotland, far fewer ancient buildings, above all in country
places; and those that we have are all of hewn or harled masonry.
Wood has been sparingly used in their construction; the window-frames
are sunken in the wall, not flat to the front, as in England; the roofs are
steeper-pitched; even a hill farm will have a massy, square, cold and
permanent appearance. English houses, in comparison, have the look
of cardboard toys, such as a puff might shatter. And to this the
Scotchman never becomes used. His eye can never rest consciously on
one of these brick houses - rickles of brick, as he might call them - or on
one of these flat-chested streets, but he is instantly reminded where he is,
and instantly travels back in fancy to his home. "This is no my ain
house; I ken by the biggin' o't." And yet perhaps it is his own, bought
with his own money, the key of it long polished in his pocket; but it has
not yet, and never will be, thoroughly adopted by his imagination; nor
does he cease to remember that, in the whole length and breadth of his
native country, there was no building even distantly resembling it.
But it is not alone in scenery and architecture that we count England
foreign. The constitution of society, the very pillars of the empire,
surprise and even pain us. The dull, neglected peasant, sunk in matter,
insolent, gross and servile, makes a startling contrast with our own long-
legged, long-headed, thoughtful, Bible-quoting ploughman. A week or
two in such a place as Suffolk leaves the Scotchman gasping. It seems
incredible that within the boundaries of his own island a class should
have been thus forgotten. Even the educated and intelligent, who hold
our own opinions and speak in our own words, yet seem to hold them
with a difference or, from another reason, and to speak on all things
with less interest and conviction. The first shock of English society is
like a cold plunge. It is possible that the Scot comes looking for too
MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS
7
much, and to be sure his first experiment will be in the wrong direction.
Yet surely his complaint is grounded; surely the speech of Englishmen is
too often lacking in generous ardour, the better part of the man too often
withheld from the social commerce, and the contact of mind with mind
evaded as with terror. A Scotch peasant will talk more liberally out of
his own experience. He will not put you by with conversational
counters and small jests; he will give you the best of himself, like one
interested in life and man's chief end. A Scotchman is vain, interested
in himself and others, eager for sympathy, setting forth his thoughts and
experience in the best light. The egoism of the Englishman is self-
contained. He does not seek to proselytise. He takes no interest in
Scotland or the Scotch, and, what is the unkindest cut of all, he does not
care to justify his indifference. Give him the wages of going on and
being an Englishman, that is all he asks; and in the meantime, while you
continue to associate, he would rather not be reminded of your baser
origin. Compared with the grand, tree-like self-sufficiency of his
demeanour, the vanity and curiosity of the Scot seem uneasy, vulgar, and
immodest. That you should continually try to establish human and
serious relations, that you should actually feel an interest in John Bull,
and desire and invite a return of interest from him, may argue something
more awake and lively in your mind, but it still puts you in the attitude
of a suitor and a poor relation. Thus even the lowest class of the
educated English towers over a Scotchman by the head and shoulders.
Different indeed is the atmosphere in which Scotch and English
youth begin to look about them, come to themselves in life, and gather
up those first apprehensions which are the material of future thought and,
to a great extent, the rule of future conduct. I have been to school in
both countries, and I found, in the boys of the North, something at once
rougher and more tender, at once more reserve and more expansion, a
greater habitual distance chequered by glimpses of a nearer intimacy,
and on the whole wider extremes of temperament and sensibility. The
boy of the South seems more wholesome, but less thoughtful; he gives
himself to games as to a business, striving to excel, but is not readily
MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS
8
transported by imagination; the type remains with me as cleaner in mind
and body, more active, fonder of eating, endowed with a lesser and a less
romantic sense of life and of the future, and more immersed in present
circumstances. And certainly, for one thing, English boys are younger
for their age. Sabbath observance makes a series of grim, and perhaps
serviceable, pauses in the tenor of Scotch boyhood - days of great
stillness and solitude for the rebellious mind, when in the dearth of
books and play, and in the intervals of studying the Shorter Catechism,
the intellect and senses prey upon and test each other. The typical
English Sunday, with the huge midday dinner and the plethoric
afternoon, leads perhaps to different results. About the very cradle of
the Scot there goes a hum of metaphysical divinity; and the whole of two
divergent systems is summed up, not merely speciously, in the two first
questions of the rival catechisms, the English tritely inquiring, "What is
your name?" the Scottish striking at the very roots of life with, "What is
the chief end of man?" and answering nobly, if obscurely, "To glorify
God and to enjoy Him for ever." I do not wish to make an idol of the
Shorter Catechism; but the fact of such a question being asked opens to
us Scotch a great field of speculation; and the fact that it is asked of all
of us, from the peer to the ploughboy, binds us more nearly together.
No Englishman of Byron's age, character, and history would have had
patience for long theological discussions on the way to fight for Greece;
but the daft Gordon blood and the Aberdonian school-days kept their
influence to the end. We have spoken of the material conditions; nor
need much more be said of these: of the land lying everywhere more
exposed, of the wind always louder and bleaker, of the black, roaring
winters, of the gloom of high-lying, old stone cities, imminent on the
windy seaboard; compared with the level streets, the warm colouring of
the brick, the domestic quaintness of the architecture, among which
English children begin to grow up and come to themselves in life. As
the stage of the University approaches, the contrast becomes more
express. The English lad goes to Oxford or Cambridge; there, in an
ideal world of gardens, to lead a semi-scenic life, costumed, disciplined
MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS
9
and drilled by proctors. Nor is this to be regarded merely as a stage of
education; it is a piece of privilege besides, and a step that separates him
further from the bulk of his compatriots. At an earlier age the Scottish
lad begins his greatly different experience of crowded class-rooms, of a
gaunt quadrangle, of a bell hourly booming over the traffic of the city to
recall him from the public-house where he has been lunching, or the
streets where he has been wandering fancy-free. His college life has
little of restraint, and nothing of necessary gentility. He will find no
quiet clique of the exclusive, studious and cultured; no rotten borough of
the arts. All classes rub shoulders on the greasy benches. The raffish
young gentleman in gloves must measure his scholarship with the plain,
clownish laddie from the parish school. They separate, at the session's
end, one to smoke cigars about a watering-place, the other to resume the
labours of the field beside his peasant family. The first muster of a
college class in Scotland is a scene of curious and painful interest; so
many lads, fresh from the heather, hang round the stove in cloddish
embarrassment, ruffled by the presence of their smarter comrades, and
afraid of the sound of their own rustic voices. It was in these early
days, I think, that Professor Blackie won the affection of his pupils,
putting these uncouth, umbrageous students at their ease with ready
human geniality. Thus, at least, we have a healthy democratic
atmosphere to breathe in while at work; even when there is no cordiality
there is always a juxtaposition of the different classes, and in the
competition of study the intellectual power of each is plainly
demonstrated to the other. Our tasks ended, we of the North go forth as
freemen into the humming, lamplit city. At five o'clock you may see
the last of us hiving from the college gates, in the glare of the shop
windows, under the green glimmer of the winter sunset. The frost
tingles in our blood; no proctor lies in wait to intercept us; till the bell
sounds again, we are the masters of the world; and some portion of our
lives is always Saturday, LA TREVE DE DIEU.
Nor must we omit the sense of the nature of his country and his
country's history gradually growing in the child's mind from story and
MEMORIES AND PORTRAITS
10
from observation. A Scottish child hears much of shipwreck, outlying
iron skerries, pitiless breakers, and great sea-lights; much of heathery
mountains, wild clans, and hunted Covenanters. Breaths come to him in
song of the distant Cheviots and the ring of foraying hoofs. He glories
in his hard-fisted forefathers, of the iron girdle and the handful of oat-
meal, who rode so swiftly and lived so sparely on their raids. Poverty,
ill-luck, enterprise, and constant resolution are the fibres of the legend of
his country's history. The heroes and kings of Scotland have been
tragically fated; the most marking incidents in Scottish history - Flodden,
Darien, or the Forty-five were still either failures or defeats; and the fall
of Wallace and the repeated reverses of the Bruce combine with the very
smallness of the country to teach rather a moral than a material criterion
for life. Britain is altogether small, the mere taproot of her extended
empire: Scotland, again, which alone the Scottish boy adopts in his
imagination, is but a little part of that, and avowedly cold, sterile and
unpopulous. It is not so for nothing. I once seemed to have perceived
in an American boy a greater readiness of sympathy for lands that are
great, and rich, and growing, like his own. It proved to be quite
otherwise: a mere dumb piece of boyish romance, that I had lacked
penetration to divine. But the error serves the purpose of my argument;
for I am sure, at least, that the heart of young Scotland will be always
touched more nearly by paucity of number and Spartan poverty of life.
So we may argue, and yet the difference is not explained. That
Shorter Catechism which I took as being so typical of Scotland, was yet
composed in the city of Westminster. The division of races is more
sharply marked within the borders of Scotland itself than between the
countries. Galloway and Buchan, Lothian and Lochaber, are like
foreign parts; yet you may choose a man from any of them, and, ten to
one, he shall prove to have the headmark of a Scot. A century and a
half ago the Highlander wore a different costume, spoke a different
language, worshipped in another church, held different morals, and
obeyed a different social constitution from his fellow-countrymen either
of the south or north. Even the English, it is recorded, did not loathe
摘要:

MEMORIESANDPORTRAITS1MEMORIESANDPORTRAITSByR.L.StevensonMEMORIESANDPORTRAITS2CHAPTERI.THEFOREIGNERATHOME"Thisisnomyainhouse;Ikenbythebiggin'o't."Tworecentbooks(1)onebyMr.GrantWhiteonEngland,oneonFrancebythediabolicallycleverMr.Hillebrand,maywellhavesetpeoplethinkingonthedivisionsofracesandnations.Su...

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