hill of its own. Compared to Nairobi, which I'd flown over a few hours before, Kampala looked
uncluttered. The streets and low buildings were laid out in a widely-spaced plan, neatly organised
but lacking any rigid geometry of grid lines or concentric circles. There was plenty of traffic
around us, both cycles and cars, but it flowed smoothly enough, and for all the honking and
shouting going on the drivers seemed remarkably good humoured.
Iganga took a detour to the east, skirting the central hill. There were lushly green sports
grounds and golf courses on our right, colonial-era public buildings and high-fenced foreign
embassies on our left. There were no high-rise slums in sight, but there were makeshift shelters
and even vegetable gardens on some stretches of parkland, traces of the shanty towns spreading
inwards.
In my jet-lagged state, it was amazing to find that this abstract place that I'd been imagining
for months had solid ground, actual buildings, real people. Most of my second-hand glimpses of
Uganda had come from news clips set in war zones and disaster areas; from Sydney, it had been
almost impossible to conceive of the country as anything more than a frantically edited video
sequence full of soldiers, refugees, and fly-blown corpses. In fact, rebel activity was confined
to a shrinking zone in the country's far north, most of the last wave of Zairean refugees had gone
home a year ago, and while Yeyuka was a serious problem, people weren't exactly dropping dead in
the streets.
Makerere University was in the north of the city; Iganga and I were both staying at the guest
house there. A student showed me to my room, which was plain but spotlessly clean; I was almost
afraid to sit on the bed and rumple the sheets. After washing and unpacking, I met up with Iganga
again and we walked across the campus to Mulago Hospital, which was affiliated with the university
medical school. There was a soccer team practising across the road as we went in, a reassuringly
mundane sight.
Iganga introduced me to nurses and porters left and right; everyone was busy but friendly, and I
struggled to memorise the barrage of names. The wards were all crowded, with patients spilling
into the corridors, a few in beds but most on mattresses or blankets. The building itself was
dilapidated, and some of the equipment must have been thirty years old, but there was nothing
squalid about the conditions; all the linen was clean, and the floor looked and smelt like you
could do surgery on it.
In the Yeyuka ward, Iganga showed me the six patients I'd be operating on the next day. The
hospital did have a CAT scanner, but it had been broken for the past six months, waiting for money
for replacement parts, so flat X-rays with cheap contrast agents like barium were the most I could
hope for. For some tumours, the only guide to location and extent was plain old palpation. Iganga
guided my hands, and kept me from applying too much pressure; she'd had a great deal more
experience at this than I had, and an over-zealous beginner could do a lot of damage. The world of
three-dimensional images spinning on my workstation while the software advised on the choice of
incision had receded into fantasy. Stubbornly, though, I did the job myself; gently mapping the
tumours by touch, picturing them in my head, marking the X-rays or making sketches.
I explained to each patient where I'd be cutting, what I'd remove, and what the likely effects
would be. Where necessary, Iganga translated for me -- either into Swahili, or what she described
as her "broken Luganda." The news was always only half good, but most people seemed to take it
with a kind of weary optimism. Surgery was rarely a cure for Yeyuka, usually just offering a few
years' respite, but it was currently the only option. Radiation and chemotherapy were useless, and
the hospital's sole HealthGuard machine couldn't generate custom-made molecular cures for even a
lucky few; seven years into the epidemic, Yeyuka wasn't yet well enough understood for anyone to
have written the necessary software.
By the time I was finished it was dark outside. Iganga asked, "Do you want to look in on Ann's
last operation?" Ann Collins was the Irish volunteer I was replacing.
"Definitely." I'd watched a few operations performed here, on video back in Sydney, but no VR
scenarios had been available for proper "hands on" rehearsals, and Collins would only be around to
supervise me for a few more days. It was a painful irony: foreign surgeons were always going to be
inexperienced, but no one else had so much time on their hands. Ugandan medical students had to
pay a small fortune in fees -- the World Bank had put an end to the new government's brief
flirtation with state-subsidised training -- and it looked like there'd be a shortage of qualified
specialists for at least another decade.
We donned masks and gowns. The operating theatre was like everything else, clean but outdated.
Iganga introduced me to Collins, the anaesthetist Eriya Okwera, and the trainee surgeon Balaki
Masika.
The patient, a middle-aged man, was covered in orange Betadine-soaked surgical drapes, arranged
around a long abdominal incision. I stood beside Collins and watched, entranced. Growing within
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