Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo(从康希尔到大开罗)

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Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

Notes on a Journey from

Cornhill to Grand Cairo

by William Makepeace Thackeray

Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

DEDICATION

TO CAPTAIN SAMUEL LEWIS, OF THE PENINSULAR AND

ORIENTAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY'S SERVICE.

My Dear Lewis,

After a voyage, during which the captain of the ship has displayed

uncommon courage, seamanship, affability, or other good qualities,

grateful passengers often present him with a token of their esteem, in the

shape of teapots, tankards, trays, &c. of precious metal. Among authors,

however, bullion is a much rarer commodity than paper, whereof I beg you

to accept a little in the shape of this small volume. It contains a few

notes of a voyage which your skill and kindness rendered doubly pleasant;

and of which I don't think there is any recollection more agreeable than

that it was the occasion of making your friendship.

If the noble Company in whose service you command (and whose fleet

alone makes them a third-rate maritime power in Europe) should appoint a

few admirals in their navy, I hope to hear that your flag is hoisted on board

one of the grandest of their steamers. But, I trust, even there you will not

forget the "Iberia," and the delightful Mediterranean cruise we had in her

in the Autumn of 1844.

Most faithfully yours, My dear Lewis, W. M. THACKERAY.

LONDON: December 24, 1845.

Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

PREFACE

On the 20th of August, 1844, the writer of this little book went to dine

at the--Club, quite unconscious of the wonderful events which Fate had in

store for him.

Mr. William was there, giving a farewell dinner to his friend Mr. James

(now Sir James). These two asked Mr. Titmarsh to join company with

them, and the conversation naturally fell upon the tour Mr. James was

about to take. The Peninsular and Oriental Company had arranged an

excursion in the Mediterranean, by which, in the space of a couple of

months, as many men and cities were to be seen as Ulysses surveyed and

noted in ten years. Malta, Athens, Smyrna, Constantinople, Jerusalem,

Cairo were to be visited, and everybody was to be back in London by Lord

Mayor's Day.

The idea of beholding these famous places inflamed Mr. Titmarsh's

mind; and the charms of such a journey were eloquently impressed upon

him by Mr. James. "Come," said that kind and hospitable gentleman,

"and make one of my family party; in all your life you will never probably

have a chance again to see so much in so short a time. Consider--it is as

easy as a journey to Paris or to Baden." Mr. Titmarsh considered all

these things; but also the difficulties of the situation: he had but six-and-

thirty hours to get ready for so portentous a journey--he had engagements

at home-- finally, could he afford it? In spite of these objections,

however, with every glass of claret the enthusiasm somehow rose, and the

difficulties vanished.

But when Mr. James, to crown all, said he had no doubt that his friends,

the Directors of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, would make Mr.

Titmarsh the present of a berth for the voyage, all objections ceased on his

part: to break his outstanding engagements--to write letters to his

amazed family, stating that they were not to expect him at dinner on

Saturday fortnight, as he would be at Jerusalem on that day--to purchase

eighteen shirts and lay in a sea stock of Russia ducks,--was the work of

four-and- twenty hours; and on the 22nd of August, the "Lady Mary

Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

Wood" was sailing from Southampton with the "subject of the present

memoir," quite astonished to find himself one of the passengers on board.

These important statements are made partly to convince some

incredulous friends--who insist still that the writer never went abroad at all,

and wrote the following pages, out of pure fancy, in retirement at Putney;

but mainly, to give him an opportunity of thanking the Directors of the

Company in question for a delightful excursion.

It was one so easy, so charming, and I think profitable--it leaves such a

store of pleasant recollections for after days--and creates so many new

sources of interest (a newspaper letter from Beyrout, or Malta, or Algiers,

has twice the interest now that it had formerly),--that I can't but

recommend all persons who have time and means to make a similar

journey--vacation idlers to extend their travels and pursue it: above all,

young well-educated men entering life, to take this course, we will say,

after that at college; and, having their book-learning fresh in their minds,

see the living people and their cities, and the actual aspect of Nature, along

the famous shores of the Mediterranean.

Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

CHAPTER I: VIGO

The sun brought all the sick people out of their berths this morning,

and the indescribable moans and noises which had been issuing from

behind the fine painted doors on each side of the cabin happily ceased.

Long before sunrise, I had the good fortune to discover that it was no

longer necessary to maintain the horizontal posture, and, the very instant

this truth was apparent, came on deck, at two o'clock in the morning, to

see a noble full moon sinking westward, and millions of the most brilliant

stars shining overhead. The night was so serenely pure, that you saw

them in magnificent airy perspective; the blue sky around and over them,

and other more distant orbs sparkling above, till they glittered away faintly

into the immeasurable distance. The ship went rolling over a heavy,

sweltering, calm sea. The breeze was a warm and soft one; quite

different to the rigid air we had left behind us, two days since, off the Isle

of Wight. The bell kept tolling its half-hours, and the mate explained the

mystery of watch and dog-watch.

The sight of that noble scene cured all the woes and discomfitures of

sea-sickness at once, and if there were any need to communicate such

secrets to the public, one might tell of much more good that the pleasant

morning-watch effected; but there are a set of emotions about which a man

had best be shy of talking lightly,--and the feelings excited by

contemplating this vast, magnificent, harmonious Nature are among these.

The view of it inspires a delight and ecstasy which is not only hard to

describe, but which has something secret in it that a man should not utter

loudly. Hope, memory, humility, tender yearnings towards dear friends,

and inexpressible love and reverence towards the Power which created the

infinite universe blazing above eternally, and the vast ocean shining and

rolling around--fill the heart with a solemn humble happiness, that a

person dwelling in a city has rarely occasion to enjoy. They are coming

away from London parties at this time: the dear little eyes are closed in

sleep under mother's wing. How far off city cares and pleasures appear

to be! how small and mean they seem, dwindling out of sight before this

Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

magnificent brightness of Nature! But the best thoughts only grow and

strengthen under it. Heaven shines above, and the humble spirit looks up

reverently towards that boundless aspect of wisdom and beauty. You are

at home, and with all at rest there, however far away they may be; and

through the distance the heart broods over them, bright and wakeful like

yonder peaceful stars overhead.

The day was as fine and calm as the night; at seven bells, suddenly a

bell began to toll very much like that of a country church, and on going on

deck we found an awning raised, a desk with a flag flung over it close to

the compass, and the ship's company and passengers assembled there to

hear the Captain read the Service in a manly respectful voice. This, too,

was a novel and touching sight to me. Peaked ridges of purple mountains

rose to the left of the ship,--Finisterre and the coast of Galicia. The sky

above was cloudless and shining; the vast dark ocean smiled peacefully

round about, and the ship went rolling over it, as the people within were

praising the Maker of all.

In honour of the day, it was announced that the passengers would be

regaled with champagne at dinner; and accordingly that exhilarating liquor

was served out in decent profusion, the company drinking the Captain's

health with the customary orations of compliment and acknowledgment.

This feast was scarcely ended, when we found ourselves rounding the

headland into Vigo Bay, passing a grim and tall island of rocky mountains

which lies in the centre of the bay.

Whether it is that the sight of land is always welcome to weary

mariners, after the perils and annoyances of a voyage of three days, or

whether the place is in itself extraordinarily beautiful, need not be argued;

but I have seldom seen anything more charming than the amphitheatre of

noble hills into which the ship now came-- all the features of the landscape

being lighted up with a wonderful clearness of air, which rarely adorns a

view in our country. The sun had not yet set, but over the town and lofty

rocky castle of Vigo a great ghost of a moon was faintly visible, which

blazed out brighter and brighter as the superior luminary retired behind the

purple mountains of the headland to rest. Before the general background

of waving heights which encompassed the bay, rose a second semicircle of

Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

undulating hills, as cheerful and green as the mountains behind them were

grey and solemn. Farms and gardens, convent towers, white villages and

churches, and buildings that no doubt were hermitages once, upon the

sharp peaks of the hills, shone brightly in the sun. The sight was

delightfully cheerful, animated, and pleasing.

Presently the Captain roared out the magic words, "Stop her!" and the

obedient vessel came to a stand-still, at some three hundred yards from the

little town, with its white houses clambering up a rock, defended by the

superior mountain whereon the castle stands. Numbers of people, arrayed

in various brilliant colours of red, were standing on the sand close by the

tumbling, shining, purple waves: and there we beheld, for the first time,

the Royal red and yellow standard of Spain floating on its own ground,

under the guardianship of a light blue sentinel, whose musket glittered in

the sun. Numerous boats were seen, incontinently, to put off from the

little shore.

And now our attention was withdrawn from the land to a sight of great

splendour on board. This was Lieutenant Bundy, the guardian of Her

Majesty's mails, who issued from his cabin in his long swallow-tailed coat

with anchor buttons; his sabre clattering between his legs; a magnificent

shirt-collar, of several inches in height, rising round his good-humoured

sallow face; and above it a cocked hat, that shone so, I thought it was

made of polished tin (it may have been that or oilskin), handsomely laced

with black worsted, and ornamented with a shining gold cord. A little

squat boat, rowed by three ragged gallegos, came bouncing up to the ship.

Into this Mr. Bundy and Her Majesty's Royal mail embarked with much

majesty; and in the twinkling of an eye, the Royal standard of England,

about the size of a pocket-handkerchief,--and at the bows of the boat, the

man-of-war's pennant, being a strip of bunting considerably under the

value of a farthing,--streamed out.

"They know that flag, sir," said the good-natured old tar, quite

solemnly, in the evening afterwards: "they respect it, sir." The

authority of Her Majesty's lieutenant on board the steamer is stated to be

so tremendous, that he may order it to stop, to move, to go larboard,

starboard, or what you will; and the captain dare only disobey him suo

Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

periculo.

It was agreed that a party of us should land for half-an-hour, and taste

real Spanish chocolate on Spanish ground. We followed Lieutenant

Bundy, but humbly in the providor's boat; that officer going on shore to

purchase fresh eggs, milk for tea (in place of the slimy substitute of

whipped yolk of egg which we had been using for our morning and

evening meals), and, if possible, oysters, for which it is said the rocks of

Vigo are famous.

It was low tide, and the boat could not get up to the dry shore. Hence it

was necessary to take advantage of the offers of sundry gallegos, who

rushed barelegged into the water, to land on their shoulders. The

approved method seems to be, to sit upon one shoulder only, holding on

by the porter's whiskers; and though some of our party were of the tallest

and fattest men whereof our race is composed, and their living sedans

exceedingly meagre and small, yet all were landed without accident upon

the juicy sand, and forthwith surrounded by a host of mendicants,

screaming, "I say, sir! penny, sir! I say, English! tam your ays! penny!"

in all voices, from extreme youth to the most lousy and venerable old age.

When it is said that these beggars were as ragged as those of Ireland, and

still more voluble, the Irish traveller will be able to form an opinion of

their capabilities.

Through this crowd we passed up some steep rocky steps, through a

little low gate, where, in a little guard-house and barrack, a few dirty little

sentinels were keeping a dirty little guard; and by low-roofed whitewashed

houses, with balconies, and women in them,-- the very same women, with

the very same head-clothes, and yellow fans and eyes, at once sly and

solemn, which Murillo painted,--by a neat church into which we took a

peep, and, finally, into the Plaza del Constitucion, or grand place of the

town, which may be about as big as that pleasing square, Pump Court,

Temple. We were taken to an inn, of which I forget the name, and were

shown from one chamber and storey to another, till we arrived at that

apartment where the real Spanish chocolate was finally to be served out.

All these rooms were as clean as scrubbing and whitewash could make

them; with simple French prints (with Spanish titles) on the walls; a few

Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

rickety half-finished articles of furniture; and, finally, an air of extremely

respectable poverty. A jolly, black-eyed, yellow- shawled Dulcinea

conducted us through the apartment, and provided us with the desired

refreshment.

Sounds of clarions drew our eyes to the Place of the Constitution; and,

indeed, I had forgotten to say, that that majestic square was filled with

military, with exceedingly small firelocks, the men ludicrously young and

diminutive for the most part, in a uniform at once cheap and tawdry,--like

those supplied to the warriors at Astley's, or from still humbler theatrical

wardrobes: indeed, the whole scene was just like that of a little theatre;

the houses curiously small, with arcades and balconies, out of which

looked women apparently a great deal too big for the chambers they

inhabited; the warriors were in ginghams, cottons, and tinsel; the officers

had huge epaulets of sham silver lace drooping over their bosoms, and

looked as if they were attired at a very small expense. Only the general--

the captain-general (Pooch, they told us, was his name: I know not how

'tis written in Spanish)--was well got up, with a smart hat, a real feather,

huge stars glittering on his portly chest, and tights and boots of the first

order. Presently, after a good deal of trumpeting, the little men marched

off the place, Pooch and his staff coming into the very inn in which we

were awaiting our chocolate.

Then we had an opportunity of seeing some of the civilians of the

town. Three or four ladies passed, with fan and mantle; to them came

three or four dandies, dressed smartly in the French fashion, with strong

Jewish physiognomies. There was one, a solemn lean fellow in black,

with his collars extremely turned over, and holding before him a long

ivory-tipped ebony cane, who tripped along the little place with a solemn

smirk, which gave one an indescribable feeling of the truth of "Gil Blas,"

and of those delightful bachelors and licentiates who have appeared to us

all in our dreams.

In fact we were but half-an-hour in this little queer Spanish town; and

it appeared like a dream, too, or a little show got up to amuse us. Boom!

the gun fired at the end of the funny little entertainment. The women and

the balconies, the beggars and the walking Murillos, Pooch and the little

Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

soldiers in tinsel, disappeared, and were shut up in their box again. Once

more we were carried on the beggars' shoulders out off the shore, and we

found ourselves again in the great stalwart roast-beef world; the stout

British steamer bearing out of the bay, whose purple waters had grown

more purple. The sun had set by this time, and the moon above was

twice as big and bright as our degenerate moons are.

The providor had already returned with his fresh stores, and Bundy's

tin hat was popped into its case, and he walking the deck of the packet

denuded of tails. As we went out of the bay, occurred a little incident

with which the great incidents of the day may be said to wind up. We

saw before us a little vessel, tumbling and plunging about in the dark

waters of the bay, with a bright light beaming from the mast. It made for

us at about a couple of miles from the town, and came close up, flouncing

and bobbing in the very jaws of the paddle, which looked as if it would

have seized and twirled round that little boat and its light, and destroyed

them for ever and ever. All the passengers, of course, came crowding to

the ship's side to look at the bold little boat.

"I SAY!" howled a man; "I say!--a word!--I say! Pasagero! Pasagero!

Pasage-e-ero!" We were two hundred yards ahead by this time.

"Go on," says the captain.

"You may stop if you like," says Lieutenant Bundy, exerting his

tremendous responsibility. It is evident that the lieutenant has a soft heart,

and felt for the poor devil in the boat who was howling so piteously

"Pasagero!"

But the captain was resolute. His duty was NOT to take the man up.

He was evidently an irregular customer--someone trying to escape,

possibly.

The lieutenant turned away, but did not make any further hints. The

captain was right; but we all felt somehow disappointed, and looked back

wistfully at the little boat, jumping up and down far astern now; the poor

little light shining in vain, and the poor wretch within screaming out in the

most heartrending accents a last faint desperate "I say! Pasagero-o!"

We all went down to tea rather melancholy; but the new milk, in the

place of that abominable whipped egg, revived us again; and so ended the

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NotesonaJourneyfromCornhilltoGrandCairo1NotesonaJourneyfromCornhilltoGrandCairobyWilliamMakepeaceThackerayNotesonaJourneyfromCornhilltoGrandCairo2DEDICATIONTOCAPTAINSAMUELLEWIS,OFTHEPENINSULARANDORIENTALSTEAMNAVIGATIONCOMPANY'SSERVICE.MyDearLewis,Afteravoyage,duringwhichthecaptainoftheshiphasdisplay...

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